Category: Research

What is wearble technology to me?

My attempt at classification-

Health medicinal purposes

more art than fashion. museum-worthy

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POLO TECH SHIRT 

• Silver fibres woven directly into the fabric
• With five connectors and an 3d accelerometer that captures intensity of movement based on 3 g-force measurements
• Tracks- heart rate, variability, breathing depth, recovery, intensity of movement, energy output, stress levels, steps taken, and calories burned
• Black box collects the data and tailors individualised training in an adaptive workout app

LINKS:  https://www.digitaltrends.com/health-fitness/ralph-lauren-polotech-smart-shirt/
https://www.just-style.com/news/ralph-lauren-debuts-smart-shirt-with-biometric-tech_id126038.aspx

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DYVIK DESIGN

   
Wearable Alien Pet (2012)  

•  Gives the wearer instant feedback about their emotional state
• Six servomotors and an Arduino that move parts and tracks heartbeat-rate
•  If Ref detects that you are stressed, it will raise its head and tail, otherwise, when you get relaxed  Ref will curl up its tail and lower its head

LINKS: https://www.i-programmer.info/news/91-hardware/4318-wearable-tech-to-help-control-stress.html
https://gajitz.com/wearable-alien-pet-trains-you-to-recognize-your-emotions/

https://www.popsci.com/technology/article/2013-08/10-amazing-high-tech-materials-projects/?image=4

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BEAGLE SCARF HOODIE

• Comfort and relief for autistic children
• speakers in the hood making it the perfect soothing wrap
• customized aroma patches along with textured inner pockets can be integrated to the scarfLINKS: https://www.yankodesign.com/2009/03/19/a-hood-that-will-make-all-the-difference/

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LESIA TRUBAT
https://www.behance.net/gallery/21108721/E-TRACES

  
E-traces (2014)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/108109673
• Artist x Lilypad Arduino technology
•  capturing dance movements and transforming them into visual sensations through the use of new technologies
• A small device attached to a ballerina’s pointe shoes tracks every move she makes, recording the pressure and movement of the dancer’s feet and send a signal to an electronic device
• A special app allows the data to be shown graphically (in customisable ways)

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JUN KAMEI

  
WIM Haptic dress (2016)

• Watch how it works –> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3cosHFQdxA&feature=emb_logo
• delivers sensory stimulation to the joints and skin, communicating information about the sequence and nature of movements
• dance prompts

   
Amphibio (2018)

• Watch how it works –> https://vimeo.com/276257699
• 3D printed wearable gill made from a special hydrophobic material
• Inspired by the rising sea levels across the globe which will potentially affect up to 3 billion people
• wearable gill structure that supports underwater breathing by replenishing oxygen from the water and dissipating carbon dioxide that builds up in the gillsJUN KAMEI : http://www.junkamei.com/
• LINKS: https://www.3dprintingmedia.network/amphibio-3d-printed-hydrophobic-gills/

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CHELSEA KLUKAS

   
Lumen Couture at MakeFashion 2019 Show

• Chelsea Klukas founded MakeFashion
• World’s largest Fashion Technology community
• Lumen Couture provides fashion technology dresses for everyday wear, special events, and performers
• Garments incorporate embedded LED technology for fashionable glow that transitions day-to-night

LUMEN COUTURE: https://www.lumencouture.com/

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MICROSOFT PRINTING DRESS

  
The Printing Dress (2011) by Astra Roseway and Sheridan Martin

• Laser-cut buttons that look like old typewriter keys are sewn into the dress. A laptop, four circuit boards, and a projector
• designed to project what you’re putting out on the Internet
• weets become fashion statements as words flit across the skirt
• step toward social accountability for your online actions. It could conceivably help reduce the flame war phenomenon that comes from people hiding behind anonymity and pare down the number of controversial tweets offhandedly tossed out by celebrities. Online words become a lot more real when you have to display them to everyone within eyesight
• but is just a prototype, not wearable

ARTICLES: https://www.cnet.com/news/microsoft-printing-dress-wear-what-you-tweet/
https://www.slashgear.com/weird-tech-fashion-dresses-let-wearer-type-on-the-skirt-and-change-color-with-mood-12171329/

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YING GAO

   
Flowing Water, Standing Time (2019)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/359978363
• Robotic clothing that reacts to the chromatic spectrum
• Made out of silicone, glass, PVDF, electronic devices
• Inspired by neurologist Oliver Sacks’ novel., The Man who Mistook his Wife for a Hat
• Like Oliver’s patient, the garments alternate between 2 states- what they are and what they can potentially become as they recognize the colours in their immediate surroundings and adapt to and mirror the rhythm of the ever-changing environment
• Perpetual metamorphosis

   
Possible Tomorrows (2017)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/233830553
• Nylon mesh, Super organza, Nylon thread, PVDF thread, thermoplastic, electronic devices
• Two robotised garments are connected to a fingerprint recognition system. However, through bypassing the notion of security, they only become animated in the presence of strangers whose fingerprints aren’t recognised by the scanner

  
Neutralité: Can't and Won't (2016)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/169623995
• Super organza, Cotton mesh, PVDF, Electronic devices
• Robotised movements and shadow plays create a nuanced and delicate breathing effect in the dresses
• The dresses react according to a facial expression recognition system and stop moving as soon as the on-looker begins to emote
• This pushes the notion of a false neutrality a bit further by asking the on-looker, who is usually highly solicited, reactive and emotional, to maintain a stoic attitude and posture

  
Incertitudes (2013)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/73585344
• PVDF, dressmaker pins, electronic devices
• Garments are activated by the spectator’s voice, and the pins will move
• Through the motion of the pins, the garments engage the spectator on a conversational level, which is filled with misunderstanding(s) and uncertainty

    
(NO)WHERE (NOW)WHERE (2013)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/68293670
• Super organza, photoluminescent thread, PVDF, electronic devices
• Dresses imbedded with eye tracking technology, is activated by spectators’ gaze

YINGGAO: http://yinggao.ca/interactifs/projets-interactifs/
ARTICLES: http://khachilife.com/intelligent-fashion-high-tech-designs-ying-gao/
          https://www.yellowtrace.com.au/possible-tomorrows-fashion-technology-ying-gao/

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BEHNAZ FARAHI

  
Iridescence (2019)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/325446043
• 3D-printed, Emotive Collar
• Inspired by the gorget of the Anna’s hummingbird
• Equipped with a AI facial tracking camera and an array of 200 rotating quills. The custom-made quills flip their colors and start to make patterns, in response to the movement of onlookers and their facial expressions
• Explores how wearables can become not only a vehicle for self-expression, but also an extension of our sensory experience of the world

    
Caress of the gaze (2015)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/220083937 
•  3D-printed wearable which can detect other people’s gaze and respond accordingly
• Explore how clothing can behave as an artificial skin capable of changing its shape and operating as an interface with the world, reacting to external stimuli such as emotions, temperature, etc (like real skin)
• A camera  (can detect age, gender, and orientation of the subject’s gaze) uses image sensing technology communicates with a microcontroller which is able to actuate and control various nodes in the garment.

   
Synapse (2015)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/139237974 
• 3D-printed wearable piece that moves and changes shape in response to the activities of the brain
• Explore direct control of the movement with neural commands from the brain so that we can effectively control the environment around us through our thoughts
• Helmet motion is controlled by the Eletroencephalography (EEG) of the brain. A Neurosky’s EEG chip and Mindflex headset have been modified and redesigned

BEHNAZ FARAHI: http://behnazfarahi.com/
ARTICLES: https://www.visualatelier8.com/fashion/behnaz-farahi-creates-design-technology-that-responds-to-human-interaction

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IRIS VAN HERPEN

    
Laser cut and 3D printed dresses by Iris Van Herpen

• Works lean more toward art than fashion. “Museum worthy”
• Technology not seen as much in the end product (eg. yinggao), but in the process
• Evolution of craftsmanship- blending technology with fashion
• Tools of today – 3D printing, laser cutting
• “Recently we have been experimenting with 4-D printers: they code movement into the material, so it transforms”

 
Infinity dress by Iris Van Herpen x Anthony Howe

• mechanism made from aluminium, stainless steel and bearings forms the skeleton of the dress
• embroidered with fine layers of feathers in a cyclical configuration
• revolve around their own centre, poetically coming to life in the delicate dance of its mechanical bearings

Time stamps - 1:50 Mechanics
              2:19 Details
              2:57 Details
              4:10 Model walking

IRIS VAN HERPEN: https://www.irisvanherpen.com/
ARTICLES: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/11/14/fashion/iris-van-herpen-style.html
https://www.harpersbazaararabia.com/fashion/the-style/interview-iris-van-herpen-on-the-fusion-of-fashion-and-technology
https://www.dezeen.com/2019/07/11/iris-van-herpen-hypnosis-couture-fashion/

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NERI OXMAN 

• Watch how it works –> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=9HI8FerKr6Q&feature=emb_logo
• Designed a computional growth process which is capable of producing a wide variety of growing structures
• The generative nature of the algorithm was possible to create a wide range of wearables that adapt to the human body for pre-visualization and design iteration

       
Wanderers (2014)

• 3-D-printed bio-spacesuits that holds microbial life engineered to support humans in/interact with extreme environments to make them livable
• For now, the 3D-printed shells are empty, but will soon begin new tests that pump engineered bacteria into the forms
• Aims to incorporate synthetic biology  into wearable product design
• “new class of functional, living materials.”
• “The future of wearables lies in designing augmented extensions to our own bodies, that will blur the boundary between the environment and ourselves”

    
Living Mushtari (Jupiter's Wanderer) (2014)

• Watch how it works –> https://deskriptiv.com/living-mushtari
• 3D printed wearable with 58 meters of internal fluid channels
• Designed as a single meandering strand inspired by the human gastrointestinal tract
• Functions as a microbial factory that uses synthetic biology to convert sunlight into useful products for the wearer
• Transparency was graded regionally within the design to create areas where photosynthetic microbes could receive light and produce sucrose

NERI OXMAN: https://neri.media.mit.edu/
DESKRIPTIV: https://deskriptiv.com/
ARTICLES: https://www.fastcompany.com/3039286/these-crazy-bacteria-filled-spacesuits-may-be-what-let-us-survive-on-other-planets#16
https://www.vice.com/en_au/article/ez5vak/neri-oxmans-bacteria-infested-spacesuits-are-grown-not-designed
Neri Oxman’s Wearable Structures

https://www.arch2o.com/3d-printed-wearables-for-outer-space-neri-oxman/
https://www.dezeen.com/2015/06/01/neri-oxman-3d-printing-photosynthetic-wearable-host-living-organisms-mit-mediated-matter/amp/

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LAUREN BOWKER

  
Air collection (2014)

• “Interested in everything you can’t see”
• Chemistry with couture
• Special ink (PdCl2) with color change potential across the CMYK or RGB scales. Can be painted, sprayed or dyed on fabric
• Ink has chemicals whose molecules change their shape depending on a stimulus, so that they refract light differently and make us see another colour
• Stimuli: changes in temperature, UV light, friction, sound, moisture, levels of carbon monoxide absrobed
• Pallidium Chloride is commonly used in catalytic converters, which reduce car emissions by reacting with exhaust gases. Reversible process where palladium chloride is broken down into palladium that can be reused, while turning the carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide. Hence the clothing changes from yellow to black in relation to the pollution it absorbs

  
Swarovski x The Unseen (2014)

• Created as a reflection of the inner workings of the human brain, stands true to Bowker’s mission of revealing the magic of the world unseen to the human eye
• Headpiece made from chameolonic Swarovski stone
• 4000 Swarovski gems are doused in temperature-sensitive ink. These stones then serve as insulators to the energy generated and lost from the head, hence changing colour
• Throughout the day as your thoughts and emotions drift in and out a beautiful display of gems will shift and change along with you.

Eighthsense(2015)

• Watch how it works—> https://vimeo.com/117064052
•  Jacket made of a flexible ceramic material
• Wearer is also equipped with an EEG (electroencephalography) headpiece, which communicates wirelessly with an app
• The app then wirelessly sends the data to the garment, which changes colour in response, from monochrome grays and blacks, to subtle pastels, to vibrant rainbow hues — each of which indicates a different emotion
• “Red portrays anger, nerves and anxiety, whereas green reflects teaching, sociality and people. Blue reveals calming, truthfulness and peace, while white mirrors an inner state of sensitivity, intuitiveness and psychic ability,”
• Could be brought forward in the future to help treat psychological disorders such as depression, or as a measure of emotional states.

THE UNSEEN: http://seetheunseen.co.uk/
TED X LAUREN BOWKER: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VM-
ARTICLES: https://www.dezeen.com/tag/lauren-bowker/
JWiFZDg&list=LLalV7Zd0k13Gk37gXuO_RMA&index=875
THE CHAMELEON EFFECT | MEET THE PIGMENT ALCHEMISTS

https://www.designindaba.com/articles/creative-work/lauren-bowker-making-world-little-more-colourful
https://www.cnet.com/news/color-changing-jacket-taps-your-brain-to-display-your-mood/
https://materialdistrict.com/article/seeing-unseen/#moved

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SUZANNE LEE

   
Bio garments by BioCouture (2014)

• Grown from a bathtub mixture of yeast, bacteria and sweetened green tea, sheets of bacteria cellulose are produced
• When wet, they can be molded/sewn into garments. Tinted with vegetable dye
• Similar to vegetable leather
• Biodegradable and compostable

BIOFABRICATE: https://www.biofabricate.co/
TED X SUZANNE: https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_lee_why_biofabrication_is_the_next_industrial_revolution/up-next?utm_source=twitter.com&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=tedspread
ARTICLES: https://www.dezeen.com/2014/02/12/movie-biocouture-microbes-clothing-wearable-futures/
https://www.fastcompany.com/1661890/biocouture-high-fashion-grown-from-microbes

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Wearable tech for “mass consumption”
– not really very scientific-approach (like health or textile exploration)  or artsy (not haute couture or art pieces that would be placed in an art museum. but belong to high fashion)
– Usually more gimmicky in my opinion???
– Though there are exceptions-> ie anrealage?

 

 LOUIS VUITTON

  

"Canvas of the Future" from the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020 Fashion Show

• Louis Vuitton x Royole Corporation (leading innovator and manufacturer of advanced flexible displays and sensors)
• Flexible OLED screen allows users to show custom images and videos on the touchscreen displays
• (nothing to do with Louis Vuitton but) Watch Royole’s concept OLED dress –> https://www.instagram.com/p/B4kOMYahecU/?igshid=f2p57pem33gu

ARTICLES : http://www.royole.com/en/Dynamics?id=697
https://hypebeast.com/2019/5/louis-vuttion-cruise-2020-bags-oled-digital-screen

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NIKE 

    
Nike Adapt

• Self-lacing sneakers
• Controlled through an app or buttons at the side of the shoe
• The button closer to your heel loosens the shoe, while the other one tightens it. You hold the loosen button for two seconds to get your sneaker completely relaxed
• Small motor in the shoes connects to the laces

ARTICLES: https://www.cnet.com/news/what-its-like-wearing-nikes-350-self-lacing-adapt-bb-sneakers/
https://www.theverge.com/2018/12/21/18151379/nike-hyperadept-2-0-self-lacing-basketball-sneakers-2019

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AUGMENTED REALITY GARMENTS

NemeN x SERVER AR

• Watch how it works–> https://www.instagram.com/p/Bw4jLO_gBxn/?igshid=1cjyox7ey4e7f  & https://www.instagram.com/p/ByS_SYHAsJQ/?igshid=kg7wnfcldi0o
• Woven jacquard polyester fabric with an augmented reality graphic
• The AR function works when the wearer pairs the jacket with the SEVER AR application, which then reveals hidden garment dimensions or animationsHanoi Riot x Hustle Studio

    
  Riot Bag by Hanoi Riot x Hustle Studio

• Watch how it works–> https://www.instagram.com/p/B2-xlN0nJO6/?igshid=1f0juqvps2vrf

NemeN:  https://www.nemen.it/
ARTICLES: https://hypebeast.com/2019/10/nemen-fall-winter-2019-collection-lookbook-sever-ar-airinum

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SOLAR CHARGED JACKET 

    
Solar Charged Jacket by Vollebak (2018)

• Waterproof, stretchy, breathable, soft, lightweight
• Engineered with a phosphorescent compound it rapidly stores any light it comes into contact with and re-emits it slowly over time.
• Phosphorescence engineered into the membrane itself so the the tech sits at the very centre of the fabric, it can’t wash out or rub off
• Can be instantly charged and made to glow in the dark by any light source

VOLLEBAK – https://www.vollebak.com/product/solar-charged-jacket/

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ANREALAGE

A light un light

• watch how it works –> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryYWJ2KEatM&feature=youtu.be
• Makes use of photochromic fabric
• https://www.instagram.com/p/B2B4jrnAQfC/?igshid=ddsqf5ma70m
• “Shadow” collection –> https://youtu.be/p9Ub6GBRzhc

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OTHER NOTABLE NAMES: 

• Anouk Wipprecht : http://www.anoukwipprecht.nl/
• Hussein Chalayan: https://www.dezeen.com/tag/hussein-chalayan/
•  Noa Raviv: https://www.yellowtrace.com.au/noa-raviv-3d-printed-couture-creations/
• Jack Irving: (Sea urchin explosion): https://www.instagram.com/p/B4xyzFfFIX6/?igshid=12flcnc2lrcr1

 

Possible further textile research:

• https://www.popsci.com/technology/article/2013-08/10-amazing-high-tech-materials-projects/?image=4
• https://www.momtastic.com/webecoist/2012/11/12/eco-fabric-14-strange-and-amazing-textile-innovations/
• https://crunchwear.com/five-materials-that-are-making-technology-wearable/
• https://fashioningtech.com/2009/09/16/dress-that-monitors-breathe/
• http://niannih.blogspot.com/2013/01/interactive-breathing-dress.html
• https://www.dezeen.com/2014/04/14/movie-studio-xo-lady-gaga-flying-dress-volantis/: