Week 7: Thermoplastics

Thermoplastics Heat Manipulation

Method of altering the shape of thermoplastic fabrics through heat i.e. boiling.

Materials:

  • Thermoplastic Fabric (100% Polyester)
  • Rubberbands
  • Aluminium Foil
  • Mould/Forms

Instructions

  1. Wrap the fabric around object forms (i.e marbles) and secure tightly with rubber bands.
  2. Wrap them with aluminium foil and tighten with rubber bands or masking tape.
  3. Put it in boiling water for at least 1 hour.
  4. Remove and let cool and dry.
  5. Unwrap it only when cool and remove marbles from shaped fabric.

My Explorations

From my previous smocking technique to create roses, it was basically just the twisting of cloth plus securing it. Hence, I wanted to see if I can achieve the same effect using heating thermoplastics instead.

So I first twisted the fabric and secured with binder clips.

Then I added aluminum foil and secured with small hair bands I brought since I thought they are smaller and hence easier to use than usual rubber bands.

Finally, I rolled it all up and wrap it in aluminium foil.

Next, I also brought some ice cream sticks. and was exploring what I can do with them.

However, for the above picture, I realised since the middle is loose, the only part which the shape will hold are the ends of the ice cream stick. Hence, I removed them all.

Lastly, I wanted to see if I can achieve a moon crater texture.

Image result for moon crater texture

So I started off with making a ring and a circle with aluminium foil.

Then, I wrapped the fabric around the circle and secured with a rubber band to imitate the insides of the crater.

Next, I flipped it over and then wrapped it around again and secured with another rubber band  in hopes to form the ridges of the crater.

Then, its boiling time!

Results:

Unfortunately, it looks nothing like roses, but at least there was still some spiral form that can unravel and spring back.

I feel like the stiffness of organza might be causing the straight edges which makes it looks like mountains instead of round rose petals. Perhaps a softer polyester fabric like chiffon will have better results.

Next, for the crater:

Is also a failure! :((

I guess the tightness of the rubber band kind of makes it shape like a pouch instead.

However, it does remind me of this knit sculpture that plays with opacity, and hence does have the potential to create an interesting lamp.

Image result for knitted sculpture

Overall, I am quite sad that there is a gap between expectations and reality with my forms but I’m glad I can learn from my mistakes and do better next time!

I will try again, next time with a few points in mind:

  • Hair ties are very weak and most of them broke, which might have compromised on the shape of the fabric. Next time, stick with rubber bands.
  • The best forms are areas of high tension on the fabric, and hence perhaps smaller objects would be preferred so as to maximise tension with the rubberband.
  • Make sure that the aluminium foil covers the entire thing fully without gaps.

UPDATED: Round 2!

So this time I decided to use something smaller and borrowed some wooden cubes that Meryl had cut!

This time fastening using yarn instead of the fragile hair ties.

Then wrapped in aluminium foil and ready to boil!

Next, I wanted to try using some marbles and cup cover.

This time I tried using the red rubber bands I brought and turns out it is easier than yarn as I can fasten a few at once.

There wasn’t enough space on the fabric for a second ‘flower’, so I tried braiding the excess cloth corners instead.

Once again wrapped in foil and ready to boil!

Initially I wanted to boil at home but I remembered that the alumni mentioned we shouldn’t use a pot that will be used for cooking food since it might be contaminated with plastic.

So, I decided to do it in school instead, outside the sewing room for good ventilation.

After 1 and a half hours of boiling…

The water level seemed really low by the end, and I was worried this might affect the results.

Nonetheless, I decided to see the end products first.

Removing the foil after it has cooled..

Tada!

The fabric seem to have taken the shape much better than my previous attempt, and the shimmer of the blue fabric under the sunlight makes it very attractive!

Also similarly impressed by my ‘flower’!

Since I had to unravel the braid to remove the objects inside, and the form kind of looks like a jelly fish now haha!

Overall, I am very glad to have tried again and am very happy with my results! In fact, I liked the cubes one so much I have an idea to turn it into a hair tie! Stay tuned! 😀

A P P L I C A T I O N S

Image result for thermoplastic manipulationImage result for thermoplastic manipulation

Image result for thermoplastic manipulationShibori pillow Ice cubes by Serria on Etsy, €55.00Michelle Griffiths creates 3D work using Shibori -- not to create coloured patterns but hand stitches and binds silk to create Pollen structures. Notice the cloth in the background!These are shibori techniques by Suzusan. They have been twisted, pressed and dyes to create unique pieces for customers. Shibori was originally done on simple fabrics such as cottons and silks but has now been moved on to leathers and metals. When treated in the right way, this technique can create 3D objects from heat setting formulas to just leaving the fabric with bands on to hold it in place.Innovative shibori textile design with delicate, organic-inspired pale pink 3D bubbles using fabric manipulation techniques; fabric surface creationmachine pleats and manually compressed polyester

Week 5: Smocking & Shirring

Smocking

Method of fabric manipulation through the gathering of a section of the material into tight pleats and holding them together with parallel stitches in an ornamental pattern.

Materials:

  • Medium weight fabric
  • Needle and thread

Instructions

  1. Find a pattern online to follow.
  2. Draw out the grid using a ruler and lines to sew (with a different colour).
  3. Start by poking in and out at the first point and in and out at the second, fastening the thread so that the fabric from both points gather together. Do a loop through the fabric and knot them together.
  4. For separate lines drawn, poke in and out at the first point but do not fasten from the previous knot, simply leave it a little loose and do a knot. Alternatively, you can cut the thread from previous work and start anew, but it is much more time consuming.
  5. Follow with patience and complete the piece. Flip over for the pattern to be revealed.

My Explorations

So I found online this ‘cross bones’ design with a pattern that seems pretty simple to follow.

ImageImage

So I drew out the grid, erm looking back I realised for some reason I saw the grids in a diagonal manner instead of the square grid hahaha but I think the end result is similar.

I decided to use the grey chalk for the grid lines and a black erasable pen for the sewing lines, which I think it is quite essential so I won’t get confused later on.

My squares are sized 2cm x 2cm.

However, I do realised that my grid lines are not exactly equal I think as the fabric will move as I draw. Perhaps, next time I will weigh something down on the corners.

Honestly, I think I kind of understood how the gathering of the cloth creates such patterns and as such, did not encounter much issues during the sewing. I think it helps that the lines I have to follow are also obvious in colour.

Despite my fastest efforts, I still took around 3 hours to complete this rectangular piece of size 18cm x 15cm.

I think the shiny texture of the cloth accentuates the curves of the smocking pattern. I realised that using the right weight of cloth is also essential, as if it is too thin(like sheer chiffon/gauze), there will not be enough stiffness to hold the pattern but if it is too thick(Like leather), it will hinder the gathering of material.

The pattern itself will also affect the outcome, the simpler the pattern – the thicker the material can be used.

I kind of like the logic and sense behind smocking techniques, so I decided to try one more pattern – the rose pattern.

The pattern, once again seems simple enough, although the website did mention that afterwards the fabric have to be twisted with tweezers from the front and sewn in place once again.

So I did a quick sketch (kind of impatient oops) and figured out that I just need to poke the middle of each line so I don’t really have to draw them.

And I just started with the squares.

I sewed one square to test it out and I realised that my square might be a little small, but decided to carry on anyway.

I think I took an hour to finish all 12 squares, which is considerably faster than the previous one. So it’s time to twist and sew! I was actually quite excited to try it and see if the end result will be as nice.

At first, I did not have a tweezer with me and tried to use a the needle itself but to no avail as it unravels easily. Thankfully, I managed to borrow a very suitable tweezer which can hold the fabric in place before I sew.

I would say it honestly looks much easier than the actual thing as there is some kind of method to twisting that will make it look like a rose, as other times the it will just look like spiral. Basically the middle part has to turn into itself to look like rose bud.

Also, sewing it into place is another issue, as sometimes it doesn’t quite looks the same when released or that the thread is too obvious in certain places. There was a lot of removing and trying involved.

This took me another 2 hours to complete and although it really doesn’t look like what I expected it to be, I think it actually might if i used larger squares.

Still, I am glad I tried it out.

Overall, Smocking is a really intricate technique which although seems complicated, can be easily replicated by following instructions dutifully.

I really enjoyed the suspense during Smocking, as it is not an instant gratification technique, and requires you to complete at least half to see results. It can be frustrating but the end results is quite satisfying.

A P P L I C A T I O N S

Smocking gives fabric a 3-dimensional aspect, which is great for adding volume to cushions.

Image result for smocking cushion

Smocking also cinches fabric, which is great for adding waistline to clothes.

Although I think Smocking was mainly used for olden days children dresses, its geometrical form is also reused in contemporary fashion.

Image result for contemporary smocking

Image result for contemporary smocking

Image result for contemporary smocking

Shirring

Method of fabric manipulation through the gathering of a section of the material into tight pleats and holding them together with parallel stitches in an ornamental pattern.

Materials:

  • Elastic thread
  • Elastic band
  • Fabric
  • Sewing Machine

Instructions

  1. For stiff, thin fabrics, load the elastic thread into the bobbin of the sewing machine.
  2. Sew parallel lines to achieve a cinching effect.
  3. For thicker fabrics like leather, use normal thread to sew.
  4. Cut a piece of elastic band the length you would like the material to shrink to when unstretched.
  5. Stretch it out across the fabric when sewing them both together steadily.

My Explorations

First of all, I learnt how to change the thread on the bobbin and load it into the sewing machine, as well as prepping the sewing machine for use.

I decided to try sewing S-shape curves onto my stiff, thin fabric.

I would say it got jammed a few times which is because the too much fabric was gathered so it is important to stretch it out properly before sewing slowly.

A P P L I C A T I O N S

Shirring is commonly seen in fashion – myself owning one of these shirred tops! Due to their elasticity, they can show off your body shape when worn. They are also commonly used to cinch the waistlines of dresses to give it shape.

Image result for shirred top

Image result for shirred dressImage result for shirred dressImage result for shirred dress

I think shirring is a great way to vary the form of the dress (i.e. tight at the top, flowy at the bottom) even though it is made out of only one fabric.

The raised/gathered texture of shirred fabric also gives it a bit of volume.