Metal 3D Printing and Its Polishing

Traditional metal sculpturing methods such as grinding, machining and milling are known as subtractive metal manufacturing. Metal 3D printing however, is additive metal manufacturing. By layering the material to slowly form the complete shape of the design, it magnificently saves  metal material.

While we have seldom heard about metal printing, it is actually been used in many areas such as space exploration, aerospace, and healthcare. For example:(see also : renishaw.com)

“In space exploration, for example, industry leaders such as Elon Musk’s SpaceX and NASA have fully embraced metal 3D printing as a way to produce rocket ship parts that have drastically lowered costs while highly improving performance. SpaceX, for example, relied heavily on the custom metal parts for the combustion chamber of the SpaceX SuperDraco engine.

NASA was able to develop a turbopump for their rocket engine that was put together with 45 percent fewer parts than pumps made through conventional manufacturing processes. It seems like it’s only a matter of time before an entire rocket engine is capable of being 3D printed.”(from TechCrunch, last access 9th Feb 2017)

In healthcare:

“the American Food and Drug Administration has approved the use of 3D-printed metal implants for medical procedures.

Recent successful applications of metal 3D printing in the medical sector include a titanium 3D-printed skull implant and a 3D-printed rib cage — both of which were custom tailored for cancer patients using digital scans after tumor removal surgeries.”(From TechCrunch, last access 9th Feb 2017)

 

3D metal Printing is a rising trend:

“Still, even marginal improvements in speed might give the right company a toehold in the growing market for metal 3D printers. While the numbers of printer sales are paltry—just 348 metal 3D printers were sold in 2013, according to Wohlers Report 2014—metals, and the concomitant printers, are the fastest growing sector of a 3D-printing field expected to be worth more than $17 billion by 2020.” (from FORTUNE.COM, last access 9th Feb 2017)

As the trend grows, metal printing would be more prevalent and the cost for it is very likely to reduce further in the future. As such, metal 3D printing can be a possible way to cut cost and save materials.


Beside the conventional way of sanding surface of 3D printed parts with sand paper or sanding machines(large or handhold turning machine), there is an alternative way–Bead blasting, or bead abrasive blasting, sand blasting.

What is sandblasting and why is it used?

“Sandblasting is an effective cleaning process for hard surfaces with the use of high pressure air. The sandblasting method can be used for smoothing, shaping and cleaning hard surfaces, debarring, blending and stress relieving of any part that is hard. This process also removes slag, rust, and imperfections in steel as a preparation for various coatings. The effect of sandblasting is similar to that of using sandpaper, but provides a more even finish.

Where is Sandblasting used?

The sandblasting process can be used effectively on steel, iron, copper, brass, aluminum and glass. Sandblasting can be used to clean up fabricated parts, structural steel, castings, pipes (inside and out) pipe fittings, auto body parts and machine parts. This process can also be used on new materials to remove rust, paints, stains and glues. Sand blasting works for automotive restoration. It helps avoid a lot of hard labor, especially when working with deeply convoluted surfaces like a rusty wheel rim.”(from CompetitiveEdgeCoating ;ast access 9th Feb 2017)

 

What is Glass Bead Blasting?

“Glass bead blasting is a metal cleaning process that creates a clean, bright, uniform matte texture. The glass beads are applied to a surface using low air pressure. This process removes paint, rust and corrosion from all types of metals, from autos, trucks, equipment, machinery engine blocks, heads and intakes. Using the bead blasting process a surface can be cleaned without any damage. The beads come in a variety of sizes. The smaller the glass beads, the smoother the surface, larger beads produce a more textured finish.

Where is Glass Bead Blasting used?

Glass Bead blasting can be used on a wide range of materials including aluminum, stainless steel, copper, steel, brass, titanium, sterling silver, bronze, metal, glass, plastic and rubber. It can be used in the restoration processes of cars and trucks. Glass bead blasting is also an effective cleaning process on equipment, machinery engine blocks, heads and intakes. Bead blasting is a low cost process and can be used on decorative parts including: custom auto parts and custom motorcycle parts.” (from CompetitiveEdgeCoating last access 9th Feb 2017)

Bead blasting is not necessarily manual. It can be done automatically with machines. (Guyson.com last access 9th Feb 2017)

reference video:

https://youtu.be/3sMhRP3Awnw from Youtube Channel Jeffrey Santo

posted on 3rd April 2013

last access 9th Feb 2017

here is another video showing automated sandblasting machine for glass frames, which can relate to jewelries

from Youtube Channel norblastsrl, posted on 5th April 2016, last access 9th Feb 2017

 

 

Phoenix and its category-Which bird to depict and why?

Phoenix(凤凰feng huang) are a mythological birds in Chinese history  that reign over other birds.

Originally, Feng Huang are two different birds of same breed. Feng is the male and Huang is the female. Later, during Yuan Dynasty, the two words are combined to one Fenghuang as the king of birds. As the image of dragon is slowly accepted to describe male emperor,phoenix is then used to portray females empresses.  

5 types of phoenix: 五凤 

太史令蔡衡曰:凡像凤者有五色,多赤者凤,多青者鸾,多黄者鵷雏,多紫者鸑鷟,多白者鸿鹄-ref  夜航船 卷十七 四灵部 by 张岱 http://guji.artx.cn/article/28345.html?key=%E4%BA%94%E8%89%B2%E8%80%8C%E8%B5%A4%E8%80%85

Loosely translate:

“There are 5 types of bird look like phoenix:

With feather mainly in scarlet, it is a phoenix凤,

red phoenix image source: http://www.wenshen520.com/fenghuang
red phoenix
image source: http://www.wenshen520.com/fenghuang

 

mainly in Blue, it is a Luan鸾 

luan-blue phoenix image source: http://tieba.baidu.com/p/1974783035?see_lz=1
luan-blue phoenix
image source: http://tieba.baidu.com/p/1974783035?see_lz=1

 

mainly in yellow, it is a Yuan Chu鵷雏

yuanchu-yellow phoenix image source: http://www.baike.com/wiki/%E9%B9%93%E9%B6%B5
yuanchu-yellow phoenix
image source: http://www.baike.com/wiki/%E9%B9%93%E9%B6%B5

 

mainly in purple, it is a Yue Zhuo鸑鷟

yuezhuo-purple phoenix image source: https://wapbaike.baidu.com/item/%E9%B8%91%E9%B7%9F/5856413
yuezhuo-purple phoenix
image source: https://wapbaike.baidu.com/item/%E9%B8%91%E9%B7%9F/5856413

 

mainly in white, it is a Hong Hu 鸿鹄 ”

honghu-white phoenix image source: http://www.wulin.cn/uploads/2016/10/1715.jpg
honghu-white phoenix
image source: http://www.wulin.cn/uploads/2016/10/1715.jpg

In fact they are all categorized under phoenix, but only the scarlet phoenix is of the highest status and purest of them all.

There is other version of explanation regarding the types of phoenix. From <Classic of mountain and Sea>:There are three multicolored birds, one is Huang皇, one is Luan鸾, one is Feng凤 .《山海经》曰:有五采鸟三名,一曰皇鸟,一曰鸾鸟,一曰凤鸟。

Some versions say that Luan鸾 is actually the same breed with 凤 feng and 凰 huang, just it is not an adult bird. As Luan grows up, it will become Feng or Huang. Nevertheless, all these are fairy tales and there isn’t a scientific way to verify as they are made up of people’s imagination.  


——————————————————————————————————————

 

 

 

Here come back to my jewelries. I need to decide which bird to depict on each jewelry:

Choker as Queen Consort/Empress Consort–one bird 皇后

Ring as Imperial Noble Consort–one bird 皇贵妃

Cuff as Consort–4 birds 妃

Spectacle chain as Dame-6 birds 嫔 

Necklace pendant as Noble Lady-feather/wing 贵人

Hairpin as Xiunv-feather 秀女

There is no doubt that phoenix will be depicting Queen Consort皇后.

red phoenix image source: http://www.wenshen520.com/fenghuang
red phoenix
image source: http://www.wenshen520.com/fenghuang

As for Imperial Noble Consort皇贵妃, since it is also a single bird, there must be a different meaning of the bird, which is why I research on the breed of phoenix.  The position of Imperial Noble Consort is very close to Queen Consort, as such choosing a breed of phoenix that is inferior than pure phoenix would be ideal. However, if the phoenix only varies by colors, it is pretty difficult to reflect in the jewelry as the material would most likely be in the same color(unless adding crystals). I realize among the 5 breeds of phoenix, the white-color breed, 鸿鹄 hong hu, has both mythological meaning and daily-life meaning. the rest 3 breeds: 鸾luan, 鵷雏yuan chu , 鸑鷟yue zhuo are seldom heard nowadays and probably most Chinese cannot even read the words. 鸿鹄 Hong Hu can be explained as the type of bird that fly very high and very far, such as eagle, Dayan, swan, crane. It is in modern context used to describe people  with great ambitions. There is one idiom as 燕雀安知鸿鹄之志(How can swallows and sparrows understand the ambition of a Hong Hu), means “How can a common fellow read the mind of a great man?” As such, it is very suitable to use the bird hong hu on Imperial Noble Consort because she has the great ambition to defeat substitute the current Queen Consort.

honghu-non-mythological image source: http://www.o2123.com/news/show-689767.html
honghu-non-mythological
image source: http://www.o2123.com/news/show-689767.html

4 birds are used for the cuff as Consort妃. As it comes down to consort, the bird is less prestigious. The first bird came into my mind is peacock. Why? Because usually the 4 consorts are always openly or secretly competing with each other, on who is the prettiest, who wears the most luxuries, or who are more favored by the emperor. It is just like peacocks showing of their feather and attracting the opposite sex. Although the fanned peacocks are males in nature, this metaphor is still applicable to the consorts and their jealousy.

peacock image source: http://www.geimian.com/wx/43943.html
peacock
image source: http://www.geimian.com/wx/43943.html

6 birds are used for spectacle chain for Dame嫔. Cuckoos could be the choice. Cuckoo bird is famous for their zygodactyl feet and laying eggs in other birds’ nest or other members’s nest from the same breed. The cuckoo egg hatches earlier than the host’s, and the cuckoo chick grows faster; in most cases the chick evicts the eggs or young of the host species. The chick has no time to learn this behavior, so it must be an instinct passed on genetically. This instinct for competition and eliminating enemy reminds me of the rivals of concubines and their kids.

Fun fact:Cuckoos have various strategies for getting their egg into a host nest. Different species use different strategies based on host defensive strategies. Female cuckoos have secretive and fast laying behaviors, but in some cases, males have been shown to lure host adults away from their nests so that the female can lay her egg in the nest.[23] Some host species may directly try to prevent cuckoos laying eggs in their nest in the first place – birds whose nests are at high risk of cuckoo-contamination are known to ‘mob’ cuckoos to drive them out of the area.[24] Parasitic cuckoos are grouped into gentes, with each gens specializing in a particular host. There is some evidence that the gentes are genetically different from one another.

Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) perched by birch leaves
Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus) perched by birch leaves

 

Noble Lady-unlimited vacancies, Thus I would only use wings in the necklace pendant. Wings means they are at a position to get ready to depart to a higher status. They are polishing themselves to get ready in the game.

 

Last but no least, Xiunv as a hair pin. Xiunv are merely the candidates for the beauty pageant. Their status is low and they might not end up the Emperor’s concubine. So their fate is unpredictable. I would like to use feather to depict them as feather is the most common thing in birds and it can be found in any bird. Whether it is a feather of phoenix or a feather of sparrow, depends on fate and their effort. Also,  the shape of feather is coherent to the shape of hair pin, which makes it easier for the design process.

 

To depict each breed of bird, I am not going to design in a very realistic way. The birds are just references to give each piece of jewelry better meaning.

 

Summary:

Queen Consort-1 phoenix, on choker

Imperial Noble Consort-1 Honghu, on ring

Consort-4 peacocks, on hand cuff

Dame-6 cuckoos, on spectacle chain

Noble Lady-wing shape necklace pendant

Xiunv-Feather shaped hair pin

Luan鸾鸟 http://baike.baidu.com/subview/760255/18999579.htm

Hong Hu鸿鹄 http://baike.baidu.com/view/339866.htm

Phoenix: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fenghuang

http://baike.baidu.com/subview/13935/5236022.htm#1

Cuckoo: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuckoo

http://www.baike.com/wiki/%E9%B9%93%E9%B6%B5

Some references are from Chinese classics, poems and tales.

6 pieces of jewelries and their rankings

This post mainly discuss:

How to depict status through each piece of jewelry

and

What are the 6 jewelries I am making


To show the rankings/status of the jewelries, there must be some easy-to-understand symbols or metaphors.  Now let’s look back at the rankings of concubines in Chinese History.   Refer to previous post: https://oss.adm.ntu.edu.sg/tzhao002/chinese-hairtyles/

皇后 Queen Consort x 1

皇贵妃 Imperial Noble Consort x 1

贵妃 Noble Consort x 2

妃 Consort x 4

嫔 Dame x 6

贵人 Noble Lady x unlimited

常在 Attendant x unlimited

答应 Repliant x unlimited

Similar to officials, concubines also their rankings corresponding to political status. In ancient China, officials are ranked from 1 pin(一品) to 9 pin(九品), with 1 pin as the highest position and 9 pin the lowest. Traditionally, 1 pin is first class minister, equivalent to nowadays the prime minister, who is only inferior to the emperor. For concubines, 1 pin is Imperial Noble Consort, while Queen Consort being the female emperor in the ranking.  Pin system is very complicated as each pin can be further divided into sub rankings. More detailed information can be found here:(In Chinese) https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B8%85%E6%9C%9D%E5%AE%98%E8%81%B7%E8%A1%A8

The rankings of the concubines are:

Imperial 1 pin: 皇后 Queen Consort x 1

1 pin:皇贵妃 Imperial Noble Consort x 1

2 pin: 贵妃 Noble Consort x 2

3 pin: 妃 Consort x 4

6 pin: 嫔 Dame x 6

7 pin: 贵人 Noble Lady x unlimited

sub 8 pin: 常在 Attendant x unlimited

9 pin: 答应 Repliant x unlimited

This ranking is according tohttp://www.wenku1.com/news/9E484855626AA3AC.html . HOWEVER, each dynasty has its own titles and ranking system for the ladies ,even for the same title, it might have different ranking or pin in the system. Researching on it, I have also came across many variations of the system. The fact is there were SO MANY concubines and concubines-to-be in the palace that the number of positions became so complicated. As such, it is difficult to clearly define the ranking of a concubine unless she is the Queen Consort or Imperial Noble Consort.

SO here comes two sets of numbers in the system:1, the pin number; 2, the number of vacancies available for a specific title(1 Queen consorts, 2 noble consorts, 4 consorts, etc).

Using pin number can cause confusions as it is not clearly defined. On the other hand, using vacancy number can depict the preciousness of the position and show the competition at that status.

For example. Queen Consort is the highest, one and only position. With One and only major feature(most likely phoenix) indicate that she sits on the most precious seat reign the imperial household. While depicting a Consort status, 4 same or similar features can be put tgt on one piece of jewelry, symbolizing that at the position there are 4 ladies altogether competing and balancing the power. The more features are depicted, the lower the status is. It is like climbing the corporate ladder in modern society, the higher you get, the lonelier you  become.


About the birds.

There is a Chinese phrase百鸟朝凤 bai niao chao feng, means hundred birds worshiping the phoenix/hundred birds paying homage to the phoenix. Phoenix is the leader/king of birds. So to emphasize its importance, it is better to depict only one adult phoenix in the jewelry set, on the most important piece for the Queen Consort. For other pieces that prior to the ascending of Queen Consort, other species of birds can be portrayed. For minor positions, only feather or wing are necessary.

Artist: Qian Xingjian钱行健 124 x 232 cm Chinese ink on rice paper image source:http://auction.artron.net/paimai-art5013260236/
Hundred Birds Worshiping the Phoenix
Artist: Qian Xingjian钱行健
124 x 232 cm, year 1951
Chinese ink on rice paper
image source:http://auction.artron.net/paimai-art5013260236/

So to conclude the idea of this post:

1> Using the difference in bird species to distinguish the status

2>Using the number of birds to show the power and competition for each status. The higher the status, the less birds are depicted. The number goes according to the number of concubines allowed for such position in Chinese history.  1 Queen Consort,  4 Consorts, etc. 

6 pieces of jewelries are:(Most important to least important)

Choker x 1-Queen Consort

Ring x 1-Imperial Noble Consort

Cuff x 1-Consort

Spectacle chain x 1-Dame

Necklace pendants x 1-Noble Lady

Hair pin x 1-Xiunv

image1-2

Instead of depicting several characters in the story, now I am more focused on depicting only one character and her ladder to power. It is easier to understand and clearly demonstrate the ranking in the story.

Choker, Bracelet, rings-Part 2

Previously, I had my choker mockup done from wire:

photo-24-10-16-20-08-55

incomplete choker. the phoenix front part. I have altered the bird neck and head to lower position so not to hurt the neck.
incomplete choker. the phoenix front part. I have altered the bird neck and head to lower position so not to hurt the neck.

After which I proceed to drawing them out in computer, 2D. The form was further simplified.

pheonix-choker-2

phoenix-choker

I drew them in group-from top down, 3 in a group. The first of the three is the first layer, second is the second layer, third is the layering of 1st and 2nd layers, to explore the possibility of layering.

I also drew the variations of design, some has cut out, some have holes for tassels or dangling details. Some have wings more angled than the rest.

Following the 2D design, I drew the choker in 3D rhino.

qq

rr
female model image source: http://www.janigamds.com/blog/best-skin-care-products/

As you can see from the image on the left, this choker is ergonomically not feasible. Our neck is not a standard cylinder but rather a cone shape. As this choker is pretty wide, it should be designed with a slight angle. If not, it can only be wore at a very high position on neck(right image) and would be really uncomfortable to wear. In addition, the pointed edges and spikes can be dangerous for people to wear on neck.

female model image source: http://alpineskin.com/collections/laser-hair-removal-for-women/neck
female model image source: http://alpineskin.com/collections/laser-hair-removal-for-women/neck

side profile of the product . In addition, the bulky design needs a lot of printing materials, at the same time, reducing the flexibility of the choker.

female model image source: http://www.janigamds.com/blog/best-skin-care-products
female model image source: http://www.janigamds.com/blog/best-skin-care-products

After slight adjustment of the angle of the wings, the choker sits better on the neck. Nevertheless, it still doesn’t solve the problem of safety. AND after all it doesn’t look so appealing aesthetically.

I started to review my design and think of other possibilities. As we have learnt in Studies in Forms module in year 3, depicting an animal does not necessarily depicting the entire feature. It can be just representation of certain traits. Take phoenix for example, to me, the most symbolic part pf phoenix is the flamboyant tails and the proud even arrogant gestures. Starting from there, I simplify my design into something more representative.

tail-choker-render-3

tail-choker-render-5

tail-choker-render
The form of the choker mimicking the flying gesture of a phoenix

tail-choker-render2

untitled-26

Cam be worn either way
Cam be worn either way

I personally like this idea a lot although I wouldn’t say it is perfect. It is physically and visually much lighter, more versatile and modern.

Based on similar design I drew out a wrist cuff.

untitled-28

It is less extravagant than the choker
It is less extravagant than the choker
Product doesn't come with the woman though. female model image source: http://banleong.com/sg/estore/fitbit-flex-teal/
Product doesn’t come with the woman though.
female model image source: http://banleong.com/sg/estore/fitbit-flex-teal/

previously I have done my ring mock ups like these

photo-24-10-16-17-55-58

image4

After last presentation, I did CAD models and 3D printed them out.

wing-ring-render-1

wing-ring-render

ring sized and dimensions
ring sized and dimensions
special thanks to Ava Pham who helped me printed this out during holiday for free
special thanks to Ava Pham who helped me printed this out during holiday for free

The printing quality isn’t good. The ring sizes are reasonable and fits me well. As rings are very particular in sizes the products will come in S M L sizes which is US 6 7 8, the most common female ring size.

Then I CAD out the matching ring design with previous choker and cuff.

untitled-34

untitled-35

untitled-36

And alternative design with a lotus. A such the series will not seem boring with wings wings and wings.

untitled

Lotus is an element I consider to add into other pieces such as glass chain, earrings, necklace pendant.

 

 

handmade jewelries, sketching practices, CNY jewelries-Part 1

I bought some DIY jewelry parts and practice to assemble them into wearable pieces.  The problems I found out during the process are

1, The details of the jewelry, i.e. links, thickness of the chain, size of the lobster claps, affect the overall look as well as the comfort of the user much more than I expected

2,  The design is limited and boring as all the parts are readymades.

3, When I am considering the customizing parts of my design, be it replaceable/changeable beads, pendants, how they can be linked onto the jewelry piece without disrupting the overall look.

4, If I want to combine 3D printed parts with readymades, such as wire, how can they be combined together(glue?claps?) and the what colors should it be.

tools and DIY elements
tools and DIY elements
Bought some metal sheets and planned to use it to explore choker and cuffs. However, the metal is much stronger than I expected and I could neither cut it nor bend it...
Bought some metal sheets and planned to use it to explore choker and cuffs. However, the metal is much stronger than I expected and I could neither cut it nor bend it…
necklace 1 practice. The necklace would look much nicer if the metal plates and the chain can be finer. However, if it gets smaller, I found it extremely hard to handcraft the details with my tools and fingers. For example, the metal ring would be too small for me to hold and bend.
necklace 1 practice. The necklace would look much nicer if the metal plates and the chain can be finer. However, if it gets smaller, I found it extremely hard to handcraft the details with my tools and fingers. For example, the metal ring would be too small for me to hold and bend.
Necklace 2. I tried to use the gradual change of the size as an exploration for my design, as I wanted to add thsi elements to some of my final products. However, upon close examination, the links of chain and balls are not well done in this piece. The separation between the balls are also not drastic enough to show the gradient. After finishing. Nevertheless, I would still try it out on my printed products, may be earrings, necklace or headpieces.
Necklace 2. I tried to use the gradual change of the size as an exploration for my design, as I wanted to add thsi elements to some of my final products. However, upon close examination, the links of chain and balls are not well done in this piece. The separation between the balls are also not drastic enough to show the gradient. After finishing. Nevertheless, I would still try it out on my printed products, may be earrings, necklace or headpieces.

source: kavantcharat official instagram Kavantcharat has a lot of amazing designs that maximize the beauty of curves, geometry shapes and lines.
source: kavantcharat official instagram
Kavantcharat has a lot of amazing designs that maximize the beauty of curves, geometry shapes and lines.

I came across this piece of jewelry on instagram and it reminds me of the lightness of feather, the movement of phoenix tails. So I did some wiring to try out the possible looks. However, there is a big issue regarding 3D printing the design, which I will elaborate in my next part 2 post.

wanted to make a spiral effect but obviously didn't come out well
wanted to make a spiral effect but obviously didn’t come out well
Added a wing onto the piece and changed the angle of the wire. But the wing is so out of position at first
Added a wing onto the piece and changed the angle of the wire. But the wing is so out of position at first
Adjusted the wire and the wing but nothing noticeable from the photo. As u can see, the end of the wire is poking directly onto my neck, which is pretty spiky and uncomfortable.
Adjusted the wire and the wing but nothing noticeable from the photo. As u can see, the end of the wire is poking directly onto my neck, which is pretty spiky and uncomfortable.
Adjusted the wire again but it was still poking me
Adjusted the wire again but it was still poking me
I bent the wire more so it will not discomfort me. The wing has also been adjusted to be closer to my ear. But I am not very satisfied with this look although it is comfortable to wear now. The curves doesn't flow well visually
I bent the wire more so it will not discomfort me. The wing has also been adjusted to be closer to my ear. But I am not very satisfied with this look although it is comfortable to wear now. The curves doesn’t flow well visually
This is how it looks off the ear
This is how it looks off the ear

More sketchings of my designs of earrings and chokers will be in next part 2 post as well.


Also, I took some photos of the CNY and Chritmas editions in shops.

Chinese knot earrings
Chinese knot earrings from H&M
Ring set from H&M
Ring set from H&M
tassels, lotus, red. from H&M
tassels, lotus, red. from H&M

They look festive but cliche to me. They are very straightforward in representing “Chinese””Auspicious””China””Happiness”, and they look cute, but also boring to me because there is nothing new about them.


Here is a random practices I did to get a felling of how jewelry designers sketches dine jewelries.

 

Sketching practices following youtube videos
Sketching practices following youtube videos

 

In part 2 there will  be some 3D printing experimentation failures, sketches of chokers and new ideas. Basically I feel that, like what we learnt from Product Design year 2, to represents a animal doesn’t need to draw the entire feature out. I refined my designs into a simpler direction. For example, my previous idea of the phoenix choker can be further simplified to the gesture of the phoenix wings or tails, It is not a MUST to add a bird head onto the piece to tell people this is a phoenix or this is a bird.

The choker can also be designed in a way that can be worn two-way, i.e. there isn’t strict front and back, each side has its own beauty.

to be continued hmm…

New Test Mock-ups, UPDATE

For this week, I start my modeling in rhino as well as some other 3D paper mock-ups.

image source: https://world.taobao.com/item/43062526116.htm?fromSite=main reference of the motifs for auspicious Chinese characters. top left: wealth(salary) top right: longevity bottom left: happiness bottom right: wealth middle: luck/good vibes
image source: https://world.taobao.com/item/43062526116.htm?fromSite=main last access 1st Nov 2016
reference of the motifs for auspicious Chinese characters.
top left: wealth(salary)
top right: longevity
bottom left: happiness
bottom right: wealth
middle: luck/good vibes
drawing the 2D image of auspicious motifs. The pattern is a combination of "wealth" and "happiness",
drawing the 2D image of auspicious motifs. The pattern is a combination of “happiness” and “wealth”,

This is how it looks when I stick 4 pieces of them together to create a cross shape 3D pendant. it appear as “happiness” in one angle and “wealth” from another.

Wealth
Wealth
longevity
happiness
45 degree
45 degree

However, my paper cutting is not refined as my scissors is too big for the pattern. So I am going to laser cut the pattern with acrylic board and then stick them together.


spectacle chain, made with golden beads(from Artfriend) and pendants I made from wire. the spectacle holders are bought from Artfriend as well. This is to test the length of the chain and the position to insert accessorizing pendants.
spectacle chain, made with golden beads(from Artfriend) and pendants I made from wire. the spectacle holders are bought from Artfriend as well. This is to test the length of the chain and the position to insert accessorizing pendants.
I use hooks to attach the pendants. It can be removed and replaced.
I use hooks to attach the pendants. It can be removed and replaced.

3D modelling of winged ring in rhino, which ready for printing.
3D modelling of winged ring in rhino, which ready for printing. I drew in size 6,7, and 8, which is the most common sizes for female ring, Also, I have the thickness of 1mm, 1.5mm, and 2mm, to test out which is the most suitable for wearing. 3 variations of wing shape is also used to see which is the best choice.
dimensions
unit: mm

Some simple paper & wire try out for jewelry

I made some rough models for the jewelry pieces to see how it would fit on body. First I did in paper

a phoenix feather-like ring, with a nail cover---In ancient China, empresses use long and spiky nail protector to shield their long nails, it was a fashion back then.
a phoenix feather-like ring, with a nail cover—In ancient China, empresses use long and spiky nail protector to shield their long nails, it was a fashion back then.
small wing-ring, open ring design...
small wing-ring, open ring design…
bigger wing ring...I think this size is a bit inconvenient for the person to do chores, and can be spiky thus might hurt herself or others, or clothes.
bigger wing ring…I think this size is a bit inconvenient for the person to do chores, and can be spiky thus might hurt herself or others, or clothes.

image3

 

image4

open ring with slightly differed design. This can grab the finger more firmly.

I also made a phoenix design choker with paper, however I forgot to take photo of it so I will upload the photo when I take one…


photo-24-10-16-17-55-58

photo-24-10-16-17-56-13
This grips my finger nicely. The wire I use is comparably soft and very easy to bend. However, for the actual piece, the material will be more rigid thus can maintain its shape better.
I feel something evil is growing
I feel something evil is growing
This is the wire version of the nail ring. I find it a bit inconvenient to bend my finger but not to a very bad extent. I do have some rings that will limit my finger movements. Normally when I need to do something important I will just remove the rings temporarily.
This is the wire version of the nail ring. I find it a bit inconvenient to bend my finger but not to a very bad extent. I do have some rings that will limit my finger movements. Normally when I need to do something important I will just remove the rings temporarily.

photo-24-10-16-18-27-24

 

Thinking of how replaceable elements in the jewelry may be like. Using "S" shape hooks to link.
Thinking of how replaceable elements in the jewelry may be like. Using “S” shape hooks to link.
incomplete choker. the phoenix front part. I have altered the bird neck and head to lower position so not to hurt the neck.
incomplete choker. the phoenix front part. I have altered the bird neck and head to lower position so not to hurt the neck.

photo-24-10-16-20-08-55

photo-24-10-16-20-08-59

HOWEVER, the protruding bird head is still very dangerous as I try it on my neck. The bird head will be hitting my chin when I lower my head. I do not wish it injured the user in anyway..So either I further shrink the sizeof the bird head, or I will make it into a more 2D head that is almost flattened on the choker.
HOWEVER, the protruding bird head is still very dangerous as I try it on my neck. The bird head will be hitting my chin when I lower my head. I do not wish it injured the user in anyway..So either I further shrink the sizeof the bird head, or I will make it into a more 2D head that is almost flattened on the choker.
a simple choker I made to fit my neck.
a simple choker I made to fit my neck.

LED inspirations, LEDs

incorporating LED to jewelry can add the elements of surprise and the uniqueness of the design. However, there might be the risk of making the jewelry into Halloween costume decoration. The design and the choice o color is very important.

image source: http://www.bitrebels.com/technology/inecklace-win-her-heart-with-a-pulsating-led-open-source-necklace/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.bitrebels.com/technology/inecklace-win-her-heart-with-a-pulsating-led-open-source-necklace/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.tuvie.com/lux-fashion-green-technology/ last access 15th Oct 2016
jewelry combines solar energy panel and LED light, as a green energy product
image source: http://www.tuvie.com/lux-fashion-green-technology/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.tuvie.com/lux-fashion-green-technology/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.tuvie.com/lux-fashion-green-technology/
last access 15th Oct 2016

take note above us a self-construct simple LED jewelry kit, which means it is possible to hide everything at the back of such a small piece of jewelry.

 

AND

of course the amazing Zac Posen dress that stunned everyone(with and without light) at MET gala 2016:

image source: http://ohnotheydidnt.livejournal.com/101583576.html last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://ohnotheydidnt.livejournal.com/101583576.html
last access 15th Oct 2016
NEW YORK, NY - MAY 02: Claire Danes arrives for the "Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology" Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 2, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Karwai Tang/WireImage) image source: http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2016/05/03/claire-danes-met-gala-2016_n_9829132.html last access 15th Oct 2016
NEW YORK, NY – MAY 02: Claire Danes arrives for the “Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology” Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 2, 2016 in New York City. (Photo by Karwai Tang/WireImage)
image source: http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2016/05/03/claire-danes-met-gala-2016_n_9829132.html
last access 15th Oct 2016

https://youtu.be/GBmS-4ZeTUw from youtube channel ViewPoint Visuals post on 2nd May 2016

 

Alternative of LED would be luminous(glow in the dark) materials which does not need electricity.  We have seen it during concert, Halloweens, Christmas, etc.

 

image source:  http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.boredpanda.com/jewelry-glow-in-the-dark-manon-richard/
last access 15th Oct 2016

The magic behind this?:

quote from Boredpanda.com:

“The secret to her magical touch? Richard applies luminous phosphorescent paint to each piece, which creates a turquoise glow when ‘charged’. The phosphorescent paint is charged by being held under a lamp for a few minutes or in the sun for a few hours.”

If this paint can be used, it solves the problem of hiding battery and wire, reducing the bulkiness of the product, and the lighting parts can be more specifically chosen and drawn.

3D printing-materials

There are many different types of materials for 3D printing, each has its owe characteristics, pros and cons. Here are some of the more common options:

reference: blog.tinkercad.com

 

image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/  last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

Nylon:(Polyamide)

-Also called White, strong & flexible/ Durable plastic/ White plastic

-Strong and flexible plastic

-1mm minimum wall thickness

-Naturally white, but you can get it colored

-About 10 layers per 1mm

-Made from powder

-Alumide=Polyamide  + Aluminum

-Interlocking, moving parts possible


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

ABS:(Home printers)

-Strong plastic like legos are

-Made from spaghetti like filament

-Many color options

-about 3 layers per 1mm

-1mm minimum wall thickness


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

Resin:(Multiple options)

-Also called White resin, Black resin, Transparent detail/ White deail resin/ High detail resin, Transparent resin, Paintable Resin

-Rigid and a bit delicate

-Liquid Photopolymer cured with UV light

-White, black & transparent most typical colors

-About 10 layers per 1mm

-1mm minimum wall thickness


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

Stainless Steel:

-Very strong material

-Made with multiple steps or from powder directly

-Coloring options like gold and bronze plating

-About 6 layers per 1mm

-3mm minimum wall thickness


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
15th Oct 2016

Gold & Silver

-Strong materials

-Made from wax and then casted/processed in powder form

-About 10 layers per 1mm

0.5mm minimum wall thickness


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

Titanium:

-Strongest material

-Direct metal laser sintering

-About 30 layers per 1mm

-o.2mm minimum wall thickness

*note: sintering is the process of compacting and forming a solid mass of material by heating or pressure without melting it to the point of liquefaction(lose strength and behave like a liquid).  Sintering  happens naturally in mineral deposits or as a manufacturing process used with metals, ceramics, plastics, and other materials.


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

Ceramic:

-Rigid & delicate

-First ceramic is printed then surface is glazed

-Ceramic White, glaze typically white

-About 6 layers per 1mm

-3mm minimum wall thickness

-After printing , firing and glazing is still required


image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/ last access 15th Oct 2016
image source: https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/
last access 15th Oct 2016

Gypsum:

-Also called Sandstone/ Rainbow ceramics/ Multicolor

-Rigid & delicate made from powder

-Naturally white, but you can get it with colors

-About 10 layers per 1mm

-2mm minimum wall thickness


Other materials includes Laywood, PLA, Aluminium and Cobalt derivstives(industrial grade 3D printing), and even paper.

 

For my jewelry product, it is obvious that metals are the best material for the appearance. They are strong and can be made into intricate designs as the minimum thickness is comparably small, and the layers per 1mm is comparably large.

However, in ADM, metal 3D printing is currently unavailable. As such, I would carry out my modelling in alternative material available that is best suitable to present my design.

Another aspect is the cost of the printing. Using silver and gold can be costly, and resulting in the high retail price of the product. Stainless steel is lower in cost, but the product would be more rigid.

CNC is also possible. As far as I know, ADM have metal cnc.

Some images for inspiration(3D printed jewelries)

I collected some images to inspire my own design, these designs are all 3D printed.

image source: http://thecreatorsproject.vice.com/blog/3d-printed-jewelry-design-and-created-by-you last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: http://thecreatorsproject.vice.com/blog/3d-printed-jewelry-design-and-created-by-you
last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: https://3dprint.com/26034/lace-by-jenny-wu-3d-jewelry/ last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: https://3dprint.com/26034/lace-by-jenny-wu-3d-jewelry/
last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: http://girlydesignblog.com/2014/05/15/amazing-3d-printed-jewellery/ last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: http://girlydesignblog.com/2014/05/15/amazing-3d-printed-jewellery/
last access 12th Oct 2016

 

The use of repeated or similar pattern can save the time during CAD as well as create visual rhythm.

 

image source: http://www.brit.co/haute-high-tech-20-must-have-pieces-of-3d-printed-jewelry/ last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.brit.co/haute-high-tech-20-must-have-pieces-of-3d-printed-jewelry/
last access 12th Oct 2016
5
image source: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mother-s-Day-Gift-Fashion-Design-Vintage-And-Punk-Style-Delicate-Hollow-Out-Black-Color-Rein/32213957508.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.127.e1JZMZ
last access 12 Oct 2016

 

The above two designs have some gestures and patterns that I can relate to my project. Moreover,  the shape of the deer necklace can be a direction how I am gonna construct my Qitou necklace.

 

image source: https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/173202923/white-faux-lace-necklace-purple-rose?ref=related-7 last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: https://www.etsy.com/sg-en/listing/173202923/white-faux-lace-necklace-purple-rose?ref=related-7
last access 12th Oct 2016

Adding dangling elements in the design.

 

image source: http://www.designboom.com/shop/design/contoured-3d-printed-waves-bracelet-wonderluk-02-04-2016/ last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: http://www.designboom.com/shop/design/contoured-3d-printed-waves-bracelet-wonderluk-02-04-2016/
last access 12th Oct 2016

The arm cuff below, by Arm De L’amour, suggest that bracelet/bangle can be used as arm cuff as well. I have bought this piece from outnet.com 2 years ago, BUT I couldn’t find it at the moment.. The design reminds me of Chinese windows and wooden structures.

image source: THEOUTNET.com last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: THEOUTNET.com
last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: THEOUTNET.com last access 12th Oct 2016
image source: THEOUTNET.com
last access 12th Oct 2016

 

Pandora also gives me the idea that the flexibility of a pendant. I mentioned in my previous post that I wantto make pendant for the non-important characters in the story. In fact the pendant can be used as earrings as well. Pandora allows people to mix and match the pendants with necklace chain or earring hooks. I can use this method as well to make the jewelry more versatile and flexible. Personally I would want something that can be worn as both necklace and earrings.

Pandora earrings and pendants image source: https://fabulouscollections.wordpress.com/2011/04/21/pandora-where-to-go-when-youve-got-the-charms/ last acess 12th Oct 2016
Pandora earrings and pendants
image source: https://fabulouscollections.wordpress.com/2011/04/21/pandora-where-to-go-when-youve-got-the-charms/
last acess 12th Oct 2016

This idea is also used in Cartier high jewelry:

cartier royal collection diamond necklace image source: http://pursuitist.com/cartiers-30ct-diamond-alternates-between-a-necklace-and-a-ring/ last access 12 Oct 2016
cartier royal collection diamond necklace
image source: http://pursuitist.com/cartiers-30ct-diamond-alternates-between-a-necklace-and-a-ring/
last access 12 Oct 2016
Cartier diamond ring image source: http://pursuitist.com/cartiers-30ct-diamond-alternates-between-a-necklace-and-a-ring/ last access 12th Oct 2016
Cartier diamond ring
image source: http://pursuitist.com/cartiers-30ct-diamond-alternates-between-a-necklace-and-a-ring/
last access 12th Oct 2016

The huge pear shape diamond can be taken down and alternate between the necklace and the ring.

more details refer to: http://pursuitist.com/cartiers-30ct-diamond-alternates-between-a-necklace-and-a-ring/

I believe the client would appreciate it when they can flaunt the diamond twice.