From reading articles about Chinese architecture, I realize that there is rules in different pitched roof regarding owner’s hierarchies. This could give me some references in designing my jewelries as I am thinking of making a set with different social status representations(like from lower class girl to high rank empress).
different types of roofs in traditional Chinese architecture image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
http://chuansong.me/n/1419060
http://chuansong.me/n/1419060
In traditional Chinese architecture, the type of roof design is a reflection of the owner’s social status. From top class to commoners:
1st: 重檐庑殿顶。Double Hip roof. This type of roof can only be used for the main hall in the Forbidden City, and Confucians Hall, and main Buddhist temples.
double hip roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th SeptemberDouble hip roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
Hip roof is a type of roof has all sides slope downwards to the walls., usually fairly gentle slopes. The roof slope curves inwards to form a convex surface. Double Hip roof, as the example shown above, is the layering of hip roof. Hip roof has five roof ridge, with the main ridge lying on the top horizontally.
2nd: 重檐歇山顶。Double Saddle Roof. This roof is used in the palaces, gardens, temples.
Double saddle roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016Tian an men Gate image source: http://www.kinabaloo.com/tiananmen_square.html last access 5th September 2016
Tian An Men Gate, for example, is using this type of roof. This design comprises a hip roof that slopes down on four sides, and integrates a gable on two opposing sides. It has nine roof ridges, including one main ridge.
3rd: 单檐庑檐顶。 Hip Roof. The single version of double hip roof. Usually used in important architectures.
Hip Roof architecture in the Forbidden City image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
4th: 单檐歇山顶。Saddle Roof. The single version of double hip-and-gap roof. Usually is used in important architectures.
saddle roof architecture in the Forbidden City image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
5th: 悬山顶。Suspension Roof. Usually used only in citizens’ houses, not for royal families or high status families.
suspension roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016suspension roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
This roof design has influenced Korean and Japanese architectures. The roof only have two slopes, with the two sides of “人”shape slightly protruding out than the wall below.
6th: 硬山顶。Gabbled Roof. According to Qing Dynasty’s regulations, only government officials below six Pin(see details at the bottom of the article) and commoners can use gabbled roof.\
Gabbled roof image source: http://tupian.baike.com/a4_31_55_01300000167882121800559717035_jpg.html last access 5th September 2016gabbled roof image source: http://www.chinahexie.org.cn/a/zhonghuaguibao/jianzhuwenhua/jianzhumingci/2011/0106/6027.html last access 5th September 2016
This type pf roof only has two slopes, and the walls on each side is at the same level or slightly protruding out than the roof(compared to suspension roof).
7th: 卷棚顶。Round Ridge Roof. Used in commoner’s residence.
Round Ridge Rood. image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016Round Ridge Roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
Round Ridge roof has no main ridge on top of the rood slopes, thus the lines of the roof is more gentle and smooth, which is why it is commonly used in gardens and casual places. It is also used for the servants’ residence in the Forbidden City.
8th: 攒尖顶。Pointed Roof. Usually used in pavilions ad towers. There is no rank specification for this type of roof.
Pointed Roof image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
Other types of roofs:
盝顶 Lu roof. It is a flatted roof surrounded by four side slopes and eight ridges.
Lu Roof image source: http://hipath4000like.lofter.com/post/1cb818e7_27dd7f8 last access 5th September 2016
盔顶 Helm Roof. It is similar to pointed roof. However, the slopes are curved outwards at the upper part and then transit to inwards, resembling a helmet. It is usually used in ceremonial architectures or pavilions.
Helm Roof. image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
From my readings, there is a more detailed introduction for Saddle Roof:
On the ridges of the saddle roof, there are always beastly creatures sitting. The types, numbers, and sequence of the creatures need to follow strict rules. For example, sitting on the two sides of the main ridge is the 正吻 Kiss Beast, also known as Swallow Ridge Beast, as the way they look.
Swallow Ridge Beast image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
At the end of the rest eight ridges, there are 垂兽Dangling Beast. There are 8 Dangling Beasts in total.
On the 戗脊 Hip ridge(the diagonal ridge below the flight gabbles on each side) there are a row of running beasts.
indication of hip ridge image source: http://baike.m.sogou.com/baike/weixinArticle.jsp?lid=518846&title=%E6%88%97%E8%84%8A&g_ut=3 last access 5th September 2016Running beasts on hip ridge image source: http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016Ridge Beast image source: http://www.mianfeiwendang.com/doc/02133e3129b6446a47fd948d last access 5th September 2016
There are ten beasts in total, the leading character is a heavenly being riding his beast ,the rest is dragon, phoenix, lion, Pegasus, Seahorse, Suan Ni(son of dragon), Ya Yu(Sea creature in tales), Xie Zhi(goast-like beast), Dou Niu(water related beast), Shi Xing(Thunder related beast). Some of the beast may exchange places.
Chinese Official rankings is very complicated, just like the modern China as there are too many people in political area holding positions. The highest official would be ranking one Pin, while the lowest would be nine Pin and blow. and in between two Pins, like One Pin and Two Pin, there are many divisions and subtitles. Four Pin would of middle to low range.
References:
坡屋面-中国古建筑的屋顶美学 Pitched Roof-Traditional Chinese Roof Aesthetics. chuansong.com http://chuansong.me/n/1419060 last access 5th September 2016
Speaking of Chinese architecture, the first thing come into people’s mind is probably the Forbidden City, also known as The Palace Museum. It is the home of royal family during Ming and Qing Dynasties, and represents the highest achievement of Chinese Architecture. Every arrangement and design in the Palace Museum has its meaning and references in Feng Shui. The whole palace is symmetrical, where the main halls of the palace locating on the central axis. More details of Forbidden City can be found online: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forbidden_City#Outer_Court_or_the_Southern_Section Forbidden City wikipedia
Forbidden City is, at the same time, not the only representation of Chinese architecture. There are many other unique characteristics that of Chinese buildings, in common people’s house, mountains and rural area, as well as in all the 胡同Hu Tong(alley) in Beijing.
I would summarize what I think can be relevant to my project as below:
Forbidden City Ariel View image source: http://athousandmiles-k.blogspot.sg/2011/03/forbidden-city-beijing.html last access 4th September 2016
—-The main colors of the Forbidden City architecture is red and yellow. It is believed that yellow is the symbol of Earth(in the Five Wlements Wood, Fire, Earth, Metal, and Water), and Earth represents the nation, which is why the roof of the buildings in the Forbidden City is always yellow in color. Red is the symbol of Fire, and fire can give rise to Earth, which is why the walls and pillars is always in red. Red Fire holding the yellow Earth, means the prosperity of the nation.
—-the rectangular shape and layout of the whole Forbidden City.In ancient China, when science was not much of a common sense and people do not have an accurate idea about the world and universe, they used to believe that the sky is round in shape, and the earth is rectangular(天圆地方). Chinese emperors used to believe that China is the centre of the world, and the Palace Museum is thus the centre of the world. Rectangular shape represents Earth。 However, there are exceptions, such as 天坛 the Temple of Heaven , where the emperors went to worship heaven for auspicious and prosperous years. As you can see from the image, the base is squarish, and the upper staircase as well as the main temple is round, precisely reflects the idea of “sky is round and earth is rectangular”. The Temple of Heaven is where (they believe) people connect to Heavens and Gods, so the temple should be built in heavenly way.
Temple of Heaven image source: http://www.williamlong.info/google/archives/233.html last access 4th September 2016
—-马头墙horse-head wall
horse-head wall image source: http://www.jiemian.com/article/288527.html last access 5th September 2016
This wall was designed to cater clustered residence where the population is comparably crowded and fire prevention is at great challenge. Horse-head wall can help preventing the spread of fire from neighbors. The horse head of the horse-head wall is usually 金印式(gold deal type) or (chao hu type) which expresses the house owners’ pursuit and wishes of high achievement in political area. From top down view, the horse-head wall creates an illusion of full steam ahead with its ups and downs.
horse-head walls image source: http://fashion.ifeng.com/travel/photo/hd_2012_06/08/15143703_4.shtml last access 5th September 2016
—-Hollow Engraved Flower Windows
In traditional Chinese houses, there are always high walls surrounding the whole area as boundary.It is a safety precaution, but at the same time, it might give people residing inside the sense of repression. That is why hollow engraved windows are incorporated to break the dullness. The windows allows sufficient lighting across the walls, and let the whole architecture breathe, while still providing divisions. The pattern on the windows are usually auspicious in meaning, to show the good wishes for the family members. The hollow windows also brings out the beauty of void, adding sophistication to the design.
Hollow Engraved Flower Window image source: http://www.tangrenty.com/show.asp?id=156 last access 6th September 2016
—-Pitched Roof
Pitched roof is a crucial element in traditional Chinese architecture. Pitched roof has smooth curves that instantly deliver the sense of magnificence and rhythm. The tiles on the roof forms linear patterns that adds interesting details to the overall image. In addition, pitched roof has the function of adjusting indoor temperature during hot summer and cold winter. It provides ventilation as well as draining off rain water.
Pitched roof image source: http://www.jiemian.com/article/288527.html last access 5th September 2016pitched roof image source: http://sns.91ddcc.com/t/65538 last access 5th September 2016
—-Cornices
Cornices are the upturned corners of the roof of architectures, resembling the form of flying bird, which gives the sense of lightness and delight. They are usually seen at the corners of pavilions, terraces, pagodas and towers.
cornices image source: http://www.jiemian.com/article/288527.html last access 5th September 2016Cornices image source: http://www.photophoto.cn/photo/zhongguochuantongrenwen/zhongguofeng/image_47664dde1291844d.htm last access 5th September 2016cornices image source: http://jennyyjw.lofter.com/post/1cd02553_58abbfc last access 5th September 2016
Before I start my article, here is an eye-opening video of different marriage traditions of varies ethnic groups in China. China has 56 ethnic groups, among which 91.59% are Han, and the rest 8.41% are people of the other 55 ethnic groups(according to the Fifth National Population Census of the People’s Republic of China in 2000). Different ethnic groups have different customs. In Chinese history, the ethnic group of the ruling party accounts for the etiquette across the country. For example, during Qing Dynasty, the ruling family is Man ethnic group(满族), thus the costume style and accessory style, as well as the customs they practice all go according to Man traditions.
Video source: YouTube channel no009<Documentary-Amazing Marriage Customs-China Anthropology 101> Published on 25th October 2013
To stick to my topic of jewelry, let’s look at the accessory aspect of these wedding traditions.
5’15”–“Usually bride’s veil is lifted after the ceremony, but here the bride uncovers her face before the ceremony starts. That is when the bride and the groom first set eye on each other.”The red veil is a tradition and rule in ancient China, which also contains the element of surprise–although back then it probably wasn’t the main purpose.
33’14”–The Ainis of Xishuangbanna, is a branch of Hani ethnic group. 34’35”–Their costumes are designed to show off their most important features. They use silver, ribbon and lace, as well as nature objects such as flower seeds, shells, and even beetles. The girls will process the beetles before wearing them on hair. When girl reaches the age of 18, she wears yellow cap; married girls wear black caps.(Use accessory to represent their status and identity)
1:09’30” when Ethinc group Miao(苗族) girls and guys are looking for partner, the boys will blow Sheng(芦笙), a traditional music instrument, while the girls dance around them. If a girl likes a boy, she will put her necklace onto the his Sheng. Miao people adore and are professional in silver jewelries because the region is abundant in silver. Even to date, many Chinese people and tourist of other countries visit Miao district and purchase silver accessories. During wedding day, Miao girls wear a great amount of silver jewelries on them, usually the more the merrier, to show the good blessing.
Miao girls during a Miao style wedding image source: http://www.wed114.cn/baike/z4017.html last access 1st September 2016Miao girl on wedding day image source: http://www.zjqqsp.cn/a/2016/0824/488810.html last access 1st September 2016DIfferent types of Miao style silver jewelries image source: http://www.dili360.com/cng/article/p5350c3da36ca165.htm last access 1st September 2016Details on a Miao style silver necklace image source: http://bbs.3miao.net/thread-85865-1-1.html Photographer:秋诗意 last access 1st September 2016
However, Miao is only a minority ethnic group in China. Majority of the Chinese nowadays are Han people, which traditionally uses gold jewelries, red wedding gowns, etc, as we seen in many Chinese movies and drama.
Nowadays there are still some jewelry related traditions in Chinese wedding.
For example, in Cantonese traditions, there is hair combing ceremony(梳头shutou). Hair combing session expressed the bless of female family members to the couple:
一梳、梳到尾(First combing, blessed to be together to the end)
二梳、百年好合(Second combing, blessing for a hundred years of harmony in your marriage)
三梳、子孙满堂(Third combing, be blessed with a houseful of children and grandchildren)
四梳、白发齐眉(Fourth combing, be blessed with longevity)
A sweet dessert soup containing pink glutinous-rice balls(汤圆pinyin: tangyuan, Cantonese:tongyuhn) is served after the hair combing ceremony to wish the couple a complete and sweet marriage.
In Teochew traditions, 四点金si dian jin(four pieces of gold)is an important part of betrothal gift to the bride. Usually the four pieces of gold jewelries are necklace, a pendent or ring, a pair of earrings and a bangle. It is selected by the groom’s mother and is presented to the bride durng the tea ceremony(when the groom arrives at bride’s house to fetch her).Usually, the design of the Si Dian Jin is cloud patterns, phoenix, dragon, and some suapicious floral designs, indicating that the groom and bride are heavenly couple like dragon and phoenix (龙凤配)。
Si Dian Jin id the name of a traditional architecture style, a four-pointed curved roof found in traditional homes. The jewelries symbolizes a blissful union in a secure home.
Si Dian Jin by Poh Heng image source: https://singaporebrides.com/articles/2010/10/poh-heng-si-dian-jin-with-a-touch-of-today/ last access 1st September 2016Si Dian Jin architecture Si Dian Jin architectures are designed in a symmetrical fashion, overall architecture is squarish, with no windows open to external space, image source and more details of the architecture: http://www.baike.com/wiki/%E5%9B%9B%E7%82%B9%E9%87%91 last access 1st September 2016
Gold jewelries with red wedding gowns create a very vivid, vibrant and auspicious atmosphere in Chinese wedding. Red is for joyful occasions in the culture, and gold is a symbol of wealth, fortune. In fact gold jewelries are still so popular during wedding in modern China, as a way to respect to customs, also a way to show off wealth. In some part of GuangDong province in China, “Golden Bride” has become increasingly popular. On the wedding day, the bride is adorned with excessive gold jewelries such as necklaces, bracelets, bangles, rings, ankle chains, etc. From far the bride would look like a girl made of gold, thus is called “golden bride”. Besides showing off the wealth, this also symbolizes “locking up” the bride so the bride will not run away and will be obedient in the groom’s family.
Host with the Golden Bride Image source: http://entertainments.dwnews.com/news/2016-01-11/59709851.html Host: Bob Lin Shengbin, image from weibo last access 1st September 2016Golden Bride in Guangdong Shunde Image source: http://focus.21cn.com/sns/a/2014/1214/21/28727145.shtml last access 1st September 2016
Golden Bride in Guangdong Shunde Image source: http://focus.21cn.com/sns/a/2014/1214/21/28727145.shtml last access 1st September 2016
As we can see here, the gold bangles are wore as necklece on the bride. The accessories are not meant to make the bride visually beautiful anymore, it is a mean to show wealth, to attract auspicious vibes, even the jewelries may not make the girl look objectively prettier or elegant. The family just pile up everything they can onto the girl, to make her look burdened, clumsy, as they believe this is good for the marriage.
The double joy“囍”
Image source: http://pic.qiantucdn.com/58pic/11/01/29/62d58PICqP2.jpg last access 1st September 2016Image source: http://www.58pic.com/shiliangtu/21417767.html last access 1st September 2016
The double joy character is so iconic and recognizable that one sight you know it is a Chinese style wedding. You can find countless different designs of the double joy on internet. During Chinese New Year, Chinese families paste inverted “福(good vibes)” in and outside their house. During Chinese weddings, Chinese families paste 囍. Although it is not a piece of jewelry in wedding, it could be cooperated into the elements of jewelries.
reference:
SINGAPOREBRIDES.com https://singaporebrides.com/articles/2000/11/combing-the-hair-and-other-chinese-wedding-traditions/ last access 1st September 2016
Weddingplannersingapore.net http://weddingplannersingapore.net/wedding-planning-101/traditional-chinese-wedding-guide/hair-combing-ritual-shang-tou/ last access 1st September 2016
Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_pre-wedding_customs last access 1st September 2016
Gold, dragons, phoenix, all these elements can clearly show the sense of “Chinese”. However, it also shows some cliche, and may not be suitable for younger generation. Take myself as an example, I would not wear a gold accessory with dragon and phoenix because it makes me look outdated, old-fashioned, and overly mature. If I want my designs to be accepted by younger generation who pursuit fashion and style, the jewelry must not look “old”. It can have the elements of traditional Chinese style but it should not look totally traditional–in other words, it should express tradition in a modern way. All the wedding jewelries and Si Dian Jin available now in jewelry shops are meant to be worn during wedding, not as a fashion accessory, which is a challenge that I want to overcome.
Here is some jewelry brand and design that I personally like. They may not be very relevant to the idea of traditional Chinese style but they can give me inspirations on jewelry designs, sensual designs, and how jewelries can make the owner pretty, elegant, or sexy, instead of just being a beautiful jewelry itself. The act of wearing the jewelry pieces can bring both the jewelry and the person alive. I admire how they combine different texture or material together, each brand has its own unique style and characteristics, and how they complement user’s overall aura.
I am really in love with how Suzanne Kalan uses asymmetrical and organic shapes to make delicate and think-out-of-box kind of designs.
Image source: http://idazzle.com/2015/03/26/diamonds-with-a-story-new-designer-collections-from-dawes-design-sandy-leong-suzanne-kalan-and-matthew-campbell-laurenza/ last access 1st September 2016Image source: net-a-porter.com last access 1st September 2016
Delfina Delettrez is very quirky, the jewelry incorporate daring motifs such as eyes, lips, skeletons, to instantly add characteristics to the wearer, and add fun elements to plain outfit.
image source: net-a-porter.com last access 1st September 2016Delfina Delettrez on Katy Perry Image source: http://jewelrista.com/blog/2014/11/30/delfina-delettrez-italian-jewelry-designer/ last access 1st September 2016
Jennifer Meyer has amazing details in her designs. Although the designs are simple and small, they are extremely elegant and sexy. Very fine diamond paved pendant with turquoise instantly attract people’s attention. The striking color of the natural material combined with gold gives a high class yet casual feeling.
image source: http://www.forbes.com/sites/barrysamaha/2015/11/10/jewelry-designer-jennifer-meyer-debuts-fashion-line-at-barneys-new-york/#2c49623d5bf5 last access 1st September 2016
Jennifer Meyer on Cara Delevingne image source: http://www.fashionnstyle.com/articles/64652/20150617/cara-delevingne-wears-jennifer-meyer-evil-eye-necklace-in-new-york-city.htm last access 1st September 2016image source: net-a-porter.com last access 1st September 2016image source: net-a-porter.com last access 1st September 2016
Ippolita makes great use of different gems and its intriguing light reflection characteristics. The designs are so fancy because of the transparency of the stones, and the range of colors in one design. Weither is contrasting color or similar tones, they are all so well combined to please one’s eye. The precious gem and their light transparency make the jewelry “breathable”, visually light, and gives the atmosphere of delight.
Image source: https://cdnd.lystit.com/photos/f58f-2014/08/08/ippolita-gold-rock-candy-marrakesh-semi-precious-multi-stone-18k-yellow-gold-gelato-link-bracelet-product-1-22321988-1-652632265-normal.jpeg last access 1st September 2016Image source: http://austin.culturemap.com/news/fashion/11-25-13-neiman-marcus-ken-downing-holiday-gifts/slideshow/#slide=0 last access 1st September 2016image source: neta-porter.com last access 1st September 2016image source: net-a-porter.com last access 1st September 2016Image source:http://www.arizonafoothillsmagazine.com/events/details/1873-meet-acclaimed-jewelry-designer-ippolita.html last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.articlesweb.org/beauty/geared-up-with-some-frosting last access 1st September 2016
Fine curvy lines with micro paved diamond simply makes an haute-couture, high-fashion kind of statement. The design is so delicate that it maximize the elegance and sexiness of human body. The design is also very visually light, emphasizes all the desirable female traits. Of course, diamonds are girls’ best friends.
image source: https://www.pinterest.com/standardstylejp/repossi/ last access 1st September 2016image source: http://habituallychic.luxury/2014/07/really-liking-repossi/ last access 1st September 2016
Stephen Webster have wild and brave designs. The designs always take inspirations from fairy tales, animals, plants, and the designer is not afraid of using bold colors. It has Disney Story collections, sea creature collections. The designs are very recognizable, with designers’ great master over colored stones, the ombre designs are so well paved that you almost cant realize that they are individual embed stones. Every his design looks like having a story to tell.
Stephen Webster ring designed based on Snow white story image source: http://www.brides.com/wedding-jewelry/fashion-rings/Hollywood-is-having-a-fairytale-moment-Heres-how-to-2000000001746147 last access 1st September 2016Stephen Webster Collection Seven deadly sins rings-Rage image resource: http://www.polyvore.com/stephen_webster_collection_seven_deadly/thing?id=26490009 last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.joyces-jewelry.com/stephen-webster/ last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.joyces-jewelry.com/stephen-webster/ last access 1st September 2016
I like how the designer plays the idea of void, making use of the empty space to create the lightness and tension for the jewelry. This is very prominent when the jewelries are worn, as can see from the image below, the jewelry “floats” on fingers and ears, in a very elegant and demure way. The smooth and sexy curves of the designs also make it very appealing on and off human body.
image source: http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/jewellery/designer/kavant-sharart/ last access 1st September 2016image source: http://gemgossip.com/home/2014/7/14/private-viewing-of-kavant-sharart-jewelry.html last access 1st September 2016image source: http://the-cave-of-wonders.blogspot.sg/2014/10/instagram-treasures-of-week-september.html last access 1st September 2016
Kimberly McDonald’s jewelries are simply mesmerizing. Geode, Opal, Calcite, Aquamarine…All the fancy colored natural stones with their organic shape, sit inside the ‘halo’ of micro diamond, it is the amalgamation of disorder and order, natural and artificial. Moreover, the diamond halo sometimes are of different sizes, definitely gives me some surprise. There is some playfulness in the design, and something that is so attractive that makes me cant take my eyes off the pieces. It is almost like there is a universe in each of its jewelry.
image source: https://www.pinterest.com/jessleila/kimberly-mcdonald-jewelry/ last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.ogroup.net/work/kimberly-mcdonald-creative-campaign/ last access 1st September 2016Kimberly McDonald on Michelle Obama image source: http://www.pricescope.com/blog/michelle-obama-rocks-kimberly-mcdonald-jewelry-2013-inaugural-ball last access 1st September 2016Kimberly McDonald on Cameron Diaz image source: http://www.stilpalast.ch/fashion/stylefinder/stylingtipps-f%C3%BCr-den-y-typ-425#sthash.LnonaXjz.dpbs last access 1st September 2016
Above three image all from Wearable Art Blog: http://www.wearableartblog.com/my_weblog/2013/01/kimberly-mcdonald.html last access 1st September 2016
Irene Neuwirth plays a lot with colors and opals. It has some designs that are similar with Kimberly McDonald. However, Irene Neuwirth can be more youthful. One of the iconic designs is its color gradient necklaces.
image source: http://www.confashionsfromkuwait.com/2013/06/flavor-of-day-irene-neuwirth-jewelry.html last access 1st Septemberimage source: http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/accessories/2014/10/irene-neuwirth-los-angeles-store/ last access 1st September 2016image source: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/52284045650888916/ last access 1st September 2016image source; http://jewelry.about.com/od/jewelrycareers/ss/Famous-Female-Jewelry-Designers.htm#step2 last access 1st September 2016
Jacquie Aiche is pure sexiness. The jewelries are so small but they speak so loud. A little bit goes a long way. Just a little details glorifies the beauty of skin and body, the subtle sparkles creates mystery and sophisticated aura.
image source: http://becauseimaddicted.net/category/jacquie-aiche last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/jewellery/jacquie-aiche-jewellery-sexy-bohemian-jewels-to-be-draped-across-the-body/ last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.wwtdd.com/2016/03/emily-ratajkowski-topless-jewelry-salesperson last access 1st September 2016image source: http://honestlywtf.com/cool-hunting/jacquie-aiches-wild-things/ last access 1st September 2016
Qeelin is a great example of the combination of eastern elements witrh western material. Diamond is obviously not something traditional Chinese jewelry uses. However, designer uses micro pave method and put diamond onto traditional Chinese motifs, objects, such as lion-dance lion, bells, Chinese coins, Chinese lock, hulu(gourd), Chinese Zodiac. Although the subject matters are very traditional, the overall design is still versatile and fashionable, maybe due to it’s small size and the not-over-yellowish-gold color. This brand is now very popular in China and among celebrities, as it is very recognizable, youthful, playful and shows our Chinese identity.
image source: http://www.yinziji.com/jewelry/jewedesign/14025.html last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.digitalism.ca/chinese-jewellery-brands/ last access 1st September 2016image source: http://robbreport.com/jewelry/celebrated-hong-kong-jewelry-designer-debuts-states last access 1st September 2016image source: http://robbreport.com/jewelry/celebrated-hong-kong-jewelry-designer-debuts-states last access 1st September 2016image source: http://www.fast-management.com/?cat=120 last access 1st Septemberimage source: http://qeelin.com/en/home/ last access 1st September 2016image source: https://jasmineshi90.wordpress.com/tag/design/ last access 1st September 2016Chinese Zodiac collection image source: http://qeelin.com/en/jewellery/collections/lucky-12/ last access 1st September 2016
Aimee Sun, Yun Yun Sun, is a Taiwanese Socialite and entrepreneur. She started her jewelry lines as a hobby and designs very interesting, unique pieces. My favorite collection is her Nonsense collection, as show below. She make many different sentences directly into necklace, ring, and earring. The sentences and words are far from formal. There are many necklaces from other designers says”hello””Happiness” or some popular slogan, but those are so cliche and commonly seen. I always want something more “me”, more naughty, more playful and makes deeper impression on people. This is the collection where I found myself, find something that can represents me, not everyone. I have purchased dozens of her jewelry from nonsense collection and they do attract a lot of attentions and fun from my friends. More importantly, Yun Yun Sun uses Chinese words and sentences, which is rarely seen in any jewelry design. This brings out my Chinese identity efficiently. The Chinese sentences such as “不要一直偷看我(don’t keep peeping at me)”“有奶有脑(boobs and brain)”“我怎么可以这么美(How can I be so beautiful)” are the best statement of Chinese identity and personal characters, because obviously, the use of Chinese language and humor is all written in the small pieces.
I only date hottiesI See Stupid PeopleI Most Likely Steal Your BoyfriendIf Sex Is A Crime Lock Me UpMind Your Own BusinessStop Staring at My Boobs
All jewelry pictures above are from yun-yun-sun.com
Designer Yun Yun Sun wear her jewelry”I’m Sexy And I Know It””Awesome””OMG””Huh” image source: http://fashion.ettoday.net/news/669132 last access 1st September 2016
Design is not copying, but design always needs inspiration. I wish I can take inspiration from modern designers and create something, as I mentioned many times, traditional yet fashionable and wearable…Although I am still currently overwhelmed by so much information and still finding my entry point..
While this video is not a 100% accurate historical documentation, it gives an idea of how important hairstyle is in Chinese history.
Hair carries significant meaning in Chinese culture, it reflects your identity, status, your religions, and your political stands. With changing of ruling parties, the hairstyle changes as well. For example, when Qing dynasty(1644-1912) took over Ming dynasty(1368-1644), The emperor of Qing enforced the policy of cutting hair.
mens’ hairstyles in different times of Chinese History Source from DNA.Yoka http://www.yoka.com/dna/d/328/556.html Last access 28th August 2016
It was so important the policy stated “Keep your hair and lose your head, keep your head and lose your hair”.
As for women, it is said that only married women are supposed to bun all the hair up. For single ladies they are supposed to let some hair down.
Also, cutting hair could be an offense in Chinese Culture, as people believed that your body are all the gifts from your parents, damaging your body equals to insulting your parents, which is unfilial. Cutting of hair can be seen as a punishment or humiliation.
There was a historically documented event in Qing Dynasty, between Queen Consort Ulanara乌喇那拉氏 and Emperor Qianlong 乾隆皇帝(1711-1799), during 1765. Ulanara was the sencond Queen Consort of Emperor Qianlong, after the first 孝贤纯皇后Queen Consort Xiaoxianchun(Emperess Xiaoxianchun) passed away.
Empress Ulanara, the Step Empress of Emperor Qian-long Imperial Painter-The Palace Museum Mid 18h Century Source: https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%B8%85%E9%AB%98%E5%AE%97%E7%BB%A7%E7%9A%87%E5%90%8E last access 28th August
Queen Consort Ulanara protested against Emperor Qianlong on his decision to appoint an Imperial Noble Consort upon a girl(*see more details below). As cutting hair is normally only performed when someone’s parents or spouse pass away, or some important figure passes away, it representing the virtual death of oneself, as to accompany the dead. The protest was so intense that Emperor Qianlong and his Queen Mother(Empress Dowager) abolished Queen Consort Ulanara into the Cold Palace(**see explanations below). Because of this incidence, Queen Consort Ulanara was never treated fairly and respected by Empreror Qianlong. After she passed away in 1766, one year after the incidence, Emperor Qianlong degraded her funeral scale and standard, and banned her from being buried in royal tombs. Even 13 years after the event, Emperor Qianlong still hasn’t forgiven her.
Relevant resource: (In Chinese) start at 19’20”
Youtube Channel CCTV Culture Official (By China Central Television)
20140606 百家讲坛 清十二帝后宫疑案6 乾隆帝爱恨交加的三个女人
Access date: 28th August 2016
As we can see hair and hairstyle have great meaning in Chinese history. Although in modern times, hairstyle is, in most cases, a personal preference, and cutting hair is not a sin or an offence anymore(maybe in some religions), we definitely have more freedom in deciding how long we want our hair to be and how often we want to style it. However, the idea of hair accessories can still bring up some Chinese traditions and stories. Incorporating hair accessories into my jewelry design can be a good direction to look at. Combining what I have mentioned in previous post regarding Chinese wedding customs, hair accessories can also play up and down, for different occasions, for different hairstyles.
*The hierarchies of Emperors wives in Chinese History, Qing Dynasty
There are strict rules regarding the hierarchies of Emperor’s wife in Qing Dynasty. From the highest ranking to the lowest ranking, and the maximum number of persons allowed for each title are listed below: (Translation may vary)
皇后 Queen Consort x 1
皇贵妃 Imperial Noble Consort x 1
贵妃 Noble Consort x 2
妃 Consort x 4
嫔 Dame x 6
贵人 Noble Lady x unlimited
常在 Attendant x unlimited
答应 Repliant x unlimited
Generally, Emperor will respect Queen Consort and do not appoint Imperial Noble Consort as this may make the Queen Consort feel intimidated or threatened, which is why Queen Consort Ulanara was so raged at Emperor Qianlong’s decision.
References:
Translation of titles: http://www.guokr.com/question/482351/ last access 28th August 2016
Hierarchies and number limits: http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/10825806.html last access 28th August 2016
** The Cold Palace:
Also known as Limbo. A representation of the place in the Forbidden City where Emperors put his abandoned, abolished or unwanted wives to spend rest of their life. Usually it means the Emperor has lost interests in them or wants to punish them for their wrong doings.
The Cold Palace is not a specific palace in the Forbidden city, it symbolizes a situation where emperor does not want to pay attention to the wife anymore, and do not entitle the wife to have the welfare that she used to have. This includes less maids servicing her. Once the wife is put into the Cold Palace, it is equals to taking away all her titles in the hierarchy although it may not be officially announced. It is very commonly seen in Chinese drama and novels.
To make Chinese related Jewelry, I need to understand the role of jewelry in China. At the beginning, jewelries are solely meant for ceremonial and religion purposes in China, they are the items of superstitions and worships. Only later it became accessories.
To make my jewelries “Chinese”, I decide to understand more about Chinese culture. However, if the purpose of the jewelry is designed too specific to one type of culture, meaning the non-Chinese people are totally not relatable, the design outcome would be very narrow. As such, wedding tradition can be a good aspect to start with. Wedding is related to most of people regardless of race and religions. A jewelry can reflects certain Chinese wedding culture, and yet it can be simply a decorative accessory. It can be worn on and off Chinese wedding. And for other races who do not perform Chinese traditions, can wear it for the auspicious meaning or just the appearance.
At brainstorming stage of my FYP, I am considering designing a set of jewelry that reflects different occasions in Chinese Traditions. It can be wedding, which is more formal, flamboyant; or daily jewelry which is more subtle.
Here is a short video briefly introduces Chinese Wedding Traditions.
Chinese Wedding Customs(三书六礼-Three Letters & Six Etiquettes)
YouTube Channel “Off the Great Wall’
Published date: 7th July 2013
Accessed date: 28th August 2016
One of the most important factors defining Chinese people, or Malay, or Indian, are the traditions and customs we practice. Although many of us do not perform the entire tradition nowadays, there are still some simplified traditions we practice. Such as wedding traditions.
Generally, the modern Chinese do not perform the whole “three letters and six Etiquettes” in marriage, some steps such as presenting wedding gift, fetching the brides, or even calculating birth date and time are not uncommon.
The major procedures in a traditional Chinese wedding “Three Letters and Six Etiquettes”
1, 纳采 na cai-sending match-makers to negotiate with the bride’s family, like the modern proposal. However, in ancient China, the groom side only need to negotiate with bride’s parents instead of the bride herself. The match-maker represents the groom’s family and will bring along around 30 items as gift, among which there is one pair of live goose symbolizing ‘one and only love’.
2, 问名 wen ming- Birthday-matching.
Sheng Chen Ba Zi Birth Date & Time, Source from Zi Zhu Xuan Fengshui website: http://yew-fengshui.com/totalweb/design/yewfengshui/index.asp?menuid=229 Last access 28th August 2016
If both family agrees, they will take both the girl and the boy’s 生辰八字(Birth Date & Time) to a fortune teller and calculate to see if they are a heaven’s match. This is getting the heaven’s approval on the marriage.
3, 纳吉 na ji-Broom will confirm the marriage by giving the brides’s family the first letter 聘书the Betrothal Letter, with their birthdays written on it. Also, the groom will give the bride betrothal gifts.
4, 纳徵 na zheng, or 过大礼 guo da li-Presenting the wedding gifts.
Betrothal gifts Source from The Chinese Wedding Shop Website http://www.thechineseweddingshop.com.sg/packages.html Last access 28th August 2016
Groom’s family will send all the gifts to the bride’s home listed in the second letter礼书the gift letter. Each gift signifies something auspicious. Guo Da Li is a very important step in Chinese marriages as it signifies the promises of the groom’s family to the bride’s family. After which bride’s family will 回礼 hui li-Return the gift. This is to thanks groom’s family so they will return half of the gifts back to them. Bride’s family will also give groom’s family some other items, such as bride’s handmade items to groom as a gift.
5, 请亲 qing qin-The two families will arrange a wedding date according to Tung Shing for an auspicious date.
Tung Shing Source from B’tween the Buds blog post https://betweenthebuds.wordpress.com/2014/08/01/wedding-the-date-%E2%99%A5-%E5%A9%9A%E7%A6%AE-%E5%90%89%E6%97%A5/ Last access 28th August 2016
6, 亲迎 qin ying-The Wedding Ceremony.
Ying Qin Fetching the bride Source from Mojingshuo blog post http://www.mojingshuo.com/topic-2564.html Last access 28th August 2016
The Groom will come to the bride’s house to give them the last letter 迎书the wedding letter. Groom picks up the bride and then go through the wedding customs at the groom’s house, wedding ceremony and dinner.
Some of the ideas I obtained from this video:
-letters. The three letters are of great importance, like the modern contract, ROM, marriage certificate.
-Gifts. Must have auspicious meaning. The live goose is a very interesting point might be considered in my design.
-Birth date & Time. This varies from individuals, maybe can be a customized part in my jewelry? So to make the jewelry uniquely MINE.
-Commonly know items in Chinese traditional wedding are dates 枣zao, peanuts 花生hua sheng, logan 桂圆gui yuan, lotus seeds 莲子lian zi—Adding up together is 枣生贵子 zao-sheng-gui-zi, which means “Giving birth to a son soon”.
Zao Sheng Gui Zi source from Ipeen.com website post by 裸斯妈 http://www.ipeen.com.tw/comment/960422 Last access 28th August 2016
This is to express the good wills for the marriage as giving birth to son is a very important, auspicious event in a Chinese marriage. This can give some inspiration to me as well.
